Finding plus-size, sustainable fashion shouldn’t be this hard. Many small brands struggle to expand their size range due to cost and expertise, while plus size shoppers are left with few options – often turning to unsustainable retailers like Shein. So where do we go from here? Let’s break down the challenges, the solutions, and how we can push for real change.

Why is plus-size fashion so hard to find?

Return of heroin chic

The pendulum has swung again – from body positivity back to glamorised thinness. Size inclusivity on the runway was increasing, but has plateaued this season:

• 95.9% of models were thin
• 4.3% were mid-size
• Only 0.8% were plus-size

This shift mirrors the rising use of Ozempic and shrinking celebrity bodies. Many brands capitalise on body trends, like body positivity, but few commit to lasting inclusivity.

Challenges of shopping plus-size

Many stores don’t stock plus-size options. Those that do, offer clothes that:

• Fit poorly
• Aren’t fashionable, or lack variety
• Are lower quality, or more expensive
• Limited stock makes shopping frustrating and time-consuming
• Size labels are not consistent across brands or countries, and many brands lack comprehensive size guides

Sizing in South Africa

Donna Claire closed down, merging with Foshini while Mr Price’s plus-size range, Insync Curve, was discontinued. Few local retailers offer fashionable plus-size options.

In a country where the average dress size is EU44-46 / UK14-16, why is it so hard to find plus-size options? Without affordable, local, and stylish options, many buyers turn to unsustainable retailers like Shein.

This seems counterintuitive – why wouldn’t brands cater to a large portion of the population who could be buying their clothes?

What shoppers are saying

Our followers have shared their experiences:

“I promise you the average South African shopping on Shein is not a fan of exploitation, but at the same time where can you find affordable, non-frumpy clothing that caters to a wide style range and is actually plus-size friendly?”

“We would love to support local brands if they had sizing that fits all bodies – that includes plus size, petite people, and tall people.”

“Yes, but how many of your affordable local options offer plus size options? Until that’s addressed, people will be forced to spend their money elsewhere.”

The BAM Collective at SAFW AW25 photographed by Eunice Driver

Why small brands struggle with size inclusivity

This issue is not just about fatphobia (though that plays a role). Expanding size ranges requires investment, expertise, and a supply chain that prioritises all body types. It takes a long time to build a wide size range well. Just because it isn’t visible on their website, doesn’t mean someone isn’t working hard to make it happen

Before we can have a more size-inclusive industry, we need to understand why it is difficult.

Practicalities of plus size

When designing a garment, you first make a fit sample in the middle of your size range. You’ll make changes until it’s perfect, and then take the pattern to the graders.

Grading is the adjustments you make to make a pattern bigger or smaller for your other sizes. Grading works for a narrow size range, but if you’re making clothes for bodies with different proportions (like plus size, petite, or tall bodies), you need an entirely new fit sample.

Bodies don’t scale evenly, which is why well-made plus-size fashion requires specific fit testing and grading techniques.

Business and the bottom line

If you’ve never produced clothing commercially, it may seem quite easy to add plus-sizes into the range – but grading and pattern making are way more expensive than people realise.

Designers would have to halve the number of styles they offer to keep pricing the same while making another fit sample. Expanding your size range = shrinking your profit margins*.

The realities of business in fashion are frustrating, but they’re important to know about. We’re not sharing this information to let designers off the hook, we’re sharing it so that you can demand change in a way that is possible.

* This doesn’t count for bigger brands, who absolutely should use their economy of scale to provide wide size ranges.

Bad grading is as bad as no grading

Many brands expand size ranges just to avoid backlash – but without the expertise, the clothes don’t fit well. Alternatively, brands cut corners by only selling stretch fabrics or boring, oversized styles, which are easier to grade.

Body proportions don’t scale evenly, making well-fitting plus-size clothing even harder to design without expertise. Everyone deserves access to well-fitting clothing that makes them feel good.

When plus-size clothing is made poorly, it leads to more returns, more carbon emissions, and more textile waste.

Sustainability and sizing

Everyone should have access to clothing that aligns with their style and ethics. We need sustainability solutions that everyone can adopt – regardless of income or body type.

• Poor fit = more returns, emissions, and textile waste
• It’s more difficult to thrift plus-size clothing

If sustainable brands don’t offer plus sizes, buyers are forced to look elsewhere.

The catch-22 of plus-size fashion

We’re left with a frustrating feedback loop:

• Limited size range → pressure from consumers → brands quickly increase size range
• Poor grading → bad fit → plus-size shoppers don’t buy
• Low sales → more waste → brands reduce size range

The cycle repeats, keeping plus-size shoppers underserved. We’re left with industry-wide, horrendous sizeism. So what can we do?

What can small brands do?

• Use local and small batch production as your strength
• Offer tailoring if producing in-house to ensure a good fit
• Offer preorders for plus-sizes, and make the patterns once you know the demand will cover your minimum order quantity
• Enable searching by size on your website, especially if you only offer bigger sizes for certain garments
• Add a comprehensive size guide to your website, including bicep and thigh circumference, arm length, etc.
• Publicly advertise size expansions so shoppers know about them
• Grade well – hire necessary expertise and test the samples on fit models
• Shein dominates because it fills a gap – but there’s an opportunity there. Ethical brands that invest in size inclusivity can build lasting customer loyalty.

What buyers can do?

• If you’re able to, support local brands offering extended sizing – your purchase helps keep those options available.
• Contact brands directly and let them know you’d purchase if they made your size
• The more people reach out, the lower the risk is for them to invest in extending their size range
• Many local brands produce in-house and will custom-make garments to your size. Support them!
• Give feedback if a design fits poorly – they can then adapt their pattern for the next batch

Everyone deserves clothes that fit – not just physically, but in style, ethics, and income too. Let’s push for a fashion industry that truly includes all bodies.

Sources

• Body Positive Alliance
• Fashion United
• Forbes
• Forbes
• Good on You
• Marie Claire
• News24
• The Plus
• Twyg
• Vogue Business
• Virtue and Vice
• Vogue Business
• Virtue and Vice
• World Population Review

Credit

• Main image Michael Ludwig AW25 by Eunice Driver for South Africa Fashion Week
• Read more of our Explainers here