As we collectively forge a new future for fashion, we need to ensure that the slow fashion movement is inclusive and accessible. For plus-sized people, the opportunities to engage with sustainable fashion have been limited. Historically, the fashion system has cultivated unrealistic ideas surrounding body image and size. Fortunately this is changing, with progressive fashion brands consciously addressing size-inclusivity.
“If we don’t practice inclusivity, we risk building a society where hate and discrimination thrive at the cost of all of us. As designers, we make clothes for people, and therefore clothes should fit whoever the person is, the person should never change to fit into the clothes,” says Jacques Bam, creative director of The BAM Collective.
Clothes should fit whoever the person is, the person should never change to fit into the clothes
Melanie Rayner, founder of South African clothing brand, Mella Moon, says ill-fitting clothes add another layer of stress to already stressful living. She says that it’s an unnecessary stress to feel uncomfortable in clothes that pinch or make you feel constricted. “With great comfort, comes great confidence, and all women are entitled to feel confident about their bodies,” says Melanie.
Size-inclusive fashion brand, Me&B’s Kelly-Grace Gibberd says, “We’re real women, with bodies that don’t always align with the ‘sizing standard’ of stores, so we know how hard it can be to feel like you’ve been cast aside or excluded because you can’t find clothes that not only fit your actual body but also your identity”.
To highlight the growing offering of size-inclusive brands, we’ve compiled this list of local fashion brands that are reshaping the industry.
Mella Moon
Mella Moon is a Cape Town-based leisurewear brand founded by Melanie Rayner. The brand specialises in leggings and uncomplicated wardrobe basics like maxi dresses, vests, and T-shirts made from bamboo-lycra yarn blend. The fabric is thick enough to not be see-through with a generous stretch allowing for a more inclusive fit. The yarn is shipped from Sichuan, China to the Cape Town harbour and knitted locallt, dyed at a small dye house, and cut and crafted in Mella Moon’s studio in Salt River.
“Size inclusivity is important because South African women come in so many different shapes and sizes, and deserve to find comfort in their wardrobes. With great comfort, comes great confidence, and all women are entitled to feel confident about their bodies,” says Melanie.
After a brand growth spurt accompanied by research and reflection, Mella Moon adapted their size range and increased the number of sizing units to be more representative of a diversity of bodies.
- Size range: XS to XXXL
- Website
Michael Ludwig Studio
Michael Ludwig Studio is a non-binary fashion brand with a focus on an African-meets-Eastern aesthetic. They create sculptural statement pieces from dresses to jumpsuits that focus on the customers’ expression rather than their gender.
Size inclusivity in fashion design has been personal for creative director, Michael Ludwig Hittinger. The designer’s mother fluctuated between various sizes up to size 50, never finding new, beautifully-designed clothing and always having to “settle”.
“Whenever she bought pants, they were either so high-waisted that they could be worn under her boobs and be loose, or the cut of the pants was so disproportionate to her waist and hips that she had to wear longer tops to hide the ill-fit,” says Michael.
Michael’s partner is what the mainstream industry would consider “plus-sized”. Although they know exactly how they want to wear, it is a daily struggle to shop and dress for a day at work, a casual weekend, or a formal evening event.
After investigating national and international retail size curves and discussing these findings with fellow local brands, Michael found that the average South African’s clothing size is larger than Europeans. They subsequently adjusted their sizing to reflect this. “We create pieces that are masculine, feminine, or a mix of both and let the end user decide what the clothing will be used for regardless of their size and gender expression,” says Michael. “I’m very privileged that [my partner] is able to wear the brand and provide personal feedback after the items are worn for the day.”
Michael says the brand aims to create a space where people can purchase garments and not have their size get in the way of their decisions. Michael’s philosophy of “different bodies have different needs” means that the studio also offers the option to custom-order.
- Size range: XS to XXL and Custom
- Website
Me&B
Me&B works hard to create garments that fit well and make their customers feel like the best version of themselves. “The very essence of our brand lies in the idea that fashion is truly for everyone, no matter your size, style, or identity – we’re about embracing it all!” says head of brand, Kelly-Grace Gibberd.
Me&B conducts fit meetings for size 34 and a size 44, which are fitted on their mannequins and staff members who report on how the garments feel and how they feel in the garment. This process helps the team ensure that both ends of the sizing spectrum are catered to and cared for.
From fit meetings to marketing efforts, Kelly explains that the team is constantly thinking about how a particular decision will impact a customer on either end of the size spectrum.
Similar to Michael Ludwig Studios’ approach, Me&B offer a tailoring service to their customers. “We want to be a safe space where women can find beautiful clothes, within an affordable price range that actually fits them,” says Kelly.
- Size range: 32 to 46 and Tailoring
- Website
The BAM Collective
The BAM Collective specialises in a spirited approach to South African luxury. It uses graphic prints, bold colours, striking silhouettes, and experimental details to explore the commercial and conceptual boundaries that clothing holds. The brand is inspired by the liveliness of South Africans and the emotional connection the South African community has with the clothes they wear.
When it comes to sizing, The BAM Collective believes in being as inclusive as possible. “We offer any size you can think of, often customising the fit of each garment for the client, not only in terms of sizes but lengths as well,” says creative director Jacques Bam.
The brand’s made-to-order business model allows The BAM Collective to customise almost any garment. Even when a client does not select a custom sizing option when making an online purchase, Jacques explains that they still send an email with detailed instructions on how to take their measurements so that their team can tailor the garments perfectly to their proportions. Jacques explains the importance of this step: “Although 28-50 is a good size range, nobody is any sort of ‘standard’. Often a person’s waist might be a 44 for example, while their bust is a few sizes larger and their hips a few sizes smaller.”
By offering a custom, made-to-size option, The BAM Collective ensures that each garment is ideal for each client. “That is part of our luxury offering, not only focussing on quality, but also on a service that ensures each garment is not disposable, but rather the perfect investment for each client,” Jacques says.
- Size range: 28 to 50 and Custom
- Website
Equilibrio
Founded by best friends Michelle Doyle and Jill Moolenschot in 2018, Equilibrio is an online marketplace where you can shop slow, South African women’s fashion brands by size up to size 50. Every one of the brands on Equilibrio is a small, South African business from the likes of Romaria to Good Clothing that make limited quantities per design and operate ethically.
- Size range: 30 to 50
- Website
Small, local brands are ahead of the size-inclusive slow fashion curve
Despite progress on size inclusivity in the fashion industry, there is still a way to go, especially among bigger companies. Michael says, “Smaller, local brands are leading the charge with the retailers starting to experiment with more sizes only because it’s topical and a lot more people are doing it”.
“We’re feeling positive about the direction that the industry is taking, whether it’s seeing a diverse range of bodies on runways and in advertisements or brands expanding their sizing ranges. Overall, we are excited to see size-inclusivity become the standard, not the exception,” concludes Kelly.
More size-inclusive local, slow fashion brands to check out:
Image Credits:
Cover image: The BAM Collective photographed by LR Photography
Images: Supplied by designers
The BAM Collective
Showcase: SA Fashion Week @safashionweek
Photographer: Eunice Driver @eunicedriverphotography
Model in orange, black, and white: Danielle von Graszouw @daniellevong
Model in blue, white, and black: Lesego A Moselakgomo @lesego_oxtail
Michael Ludwig Studio
Image 1 and 2: Shot and styled by @lady_crunk (Olwethu-Thando Klaas). Hat is by @simonandmary.
