Day 2: On Wednesday (6 November), at the Mount Nelson’s Confections x Collections, Adeju Thompson, founder of the Nigerian-based Lagos Space Programme, became the first international designer to showcase his work at the annual fashion experience. With his participation, there are now 12 designers in total who have shown at the prestigious event since the event launched in 2022. “It’s about showcasing designers that tell a story about what is happening on the continent in fashion, in design, and with people,” says Jackie May of Twyg. The Mount Nelson presents the annual Confections x Collections, a five-day fashion experience which is curated by Twyg.

Master of ceremony Seth Shezi introduced Adeju’s show: “Think about the future, about blurring the lines, and what African fashion could be in another universe.” As the music began, this dreamy scene was set. Models slinked trance-like through the lounge to a mystical and hypnotic loop of drums produced by EMÆNUEL.

Reimaginings of traditional garments and wardrobe staples were threaded through the collection: jeans with cut-out pockets; Kembe culottes with contrasted yokes; a soccer shirt with the neckline of an agbada—a Yoruba style of robe; a hoodie masterfully hand-dyed. Neat, formal tailoring was brought to life with hand-painted adire patterns, a traditional Yoruba textile.

Photographer: Nicole Landman

The confection served alongside Adeju’s collection was a blueberry delice, valrhona caramel crèmeux, and caramelia crunch. The mousse-like delice was topped with a thin sheet of translucent glaze, artfully printed to emulate the indigo patterns of adire. These designs hold cultural significance, representing facets of Yoruba life—a significance that Adeju’s work brings to the forefront.

Photographer: Nicole Landman

The name Lagos Space Programme holds multiple layers of meaning, not least of which is Adeju’s obsession with space podcasts. The concept of an indigenous space programme, alongside the idea of space as the last frontier, fascinates him. Adeju’s work envisions a kind of speculative future, exploring the question: “What is futuristic African fashion?”

The label’s name also reflects how Adeju’s work refuses to be put in a box. “The West always has this expectation of what African design is,” says Adeju. “And I think I am allowed to exist in my multi-ness.”

As Seth pointed out, Adeju’s work may not seem obviously Yoruba-inspired. “An untrained eye has an expectation of what that should look like when it comes to fashion,” he says. “It’s bold, it’s bombastic, it’s bright. Your fashion isn’t necessarily that.”

“I think there’s a misconception about Nigerian fashion and Yoruba aesthetics,” says Adeju. “If you research deep, deep, there is a tradition of minimalism from the Yorubas.” Through his minimalist, architectural and tailored designs, Adeju hopes to highlight this perhaps lesser-known history, sharing his own vision of Nigeria.

Photographer: Candice Bodington

Photographer: Paige Fiddes

But while their garments are thoroughly researched and culturally meaningful, it’s important to Adeju that they’re primarily beautiful and resonate with an audience. “First and foremost, you enjoy the product,” he says. “I like the idea that you can tap into what I describe as universal codes that anyone can find appealing.”

“But upon further research, you do realise there’s more. You’re interested in more cultures and techniques that are from entirely different societies.”

Adeju sees his work as muscle-building, prioritising slow and steady progress. “I find myself constantly fine-tuning it, hacking into it,” he says. “It’s sort of like working on a muscle, and the more I do it, the more the aesthetic becomes refined.”

Going forward, Adeju plans to continue at his own steady pace, with the intention of using his success to uplift. “I’m a very ambitious person; I go for the world,” he says. “That’s a big story, but I think in the future I’m going to provide opportunities for everyone.”

• Feature image by Paige Fiddes
• Find out more about Confections x Collections at the Mount Nelson in Cape Town here