Since he was a toddler, Samkelo Boyde Xaba has been obsessed with the creative arts. This obsession and his curiosity about clothes and how they are made led him into the world of fashion. “I have a strong aesthetically driven perspective and fashion is a way of for me to express myself at a particular time and place in a specific context,” says Samkelo. In 2017, Johannesburg-based Samkelo launched BOYDE, a contemporary luxury clothing brand, and he won South African Fashion Week’s Scouting Menswear Competition in 2020. We caught up with the Samekelo after the launch the new BOYDE collection, Deterritorialisation. Deterritorialisation is the process by which Indigenous peoples are removed from and mapped out of their land and mapped into confined spaces.
What is the story behind your recent collection?
It has been almost 30 years since South Africa became a democracy, so we entered a post-Apartheid era fairly recently. This collection emphasises the design and function of Apartheid-era hostels [typically single-sex accommodation for cheap mine and other workers], which served as physical embodiments of the National Party’s policies, designed to segregate and control non-white populations. The collection serves as a design approach to interpret the impact of segregation on style and African Luxury.
Henrik Frensch Verwoerd [Prime Minister of South Africa from 1958 to 1961, and then president from 1961 to 1966] was a key figure in implementing apartheid and played a significant role in shaping the Apartheid architectural landscape. Hostels, originally constructed to house black labourers in mining areas, were designed with strict control measures resembling prison structures. Their utilitarian design prioritised cost-efficiency over any considerations for social interaction or quality of life.
These hostels, strategically located near centres of power and far from white communities, served to isolate and dehumanise their inhabitants, reinforcing ethnic and social separation. The architecture itself, characterised by sturdy, authoritarian features and a lack of amenities, reflects the broader dehumanising ideology of apartheid.
What inspired you to use cowrie shells?
Throughout ancient Africa, cowrie shells were used as a form of currency until the 20th century. They were a sign of wealth. In addition to their use as money, cowrie shells hold a spiritual significance as well. They bring good luck to the wearer and protect their spirit.
How do you make sure your aesthetics and designs are inclusive, yet locally relevant?
I think every collection is inclusive because our values and ethos are aligned with African aesthetics. We take this into consideration when we conceptualise our ideas.
How do you implement sustainability in your practice?
BOYDE maintains an unwavering commitment to producing high-quality, sustainable fashion. Simplicity is at the core of BOYDE’s designs, reflecting a pared-down minimalism that delivers both exceptional quality and unmatched comfort.
Tell us about the mohair and wool garments.
These garments were developed with our knitting factory partners. It was imperative that we executed these in the suitable quality and we worked with one of the most sophisticated knitting mills in South Africa.
What is the most important value with which your brand aligns itself?
BOYDE is dedicated to contributing to growing the manufacturing sector of South Africa by creating more jobs in production by outsourcing to small scale manufacturers and to carefully produce the highest quality products in a sustainable manner.
What design best represents your past, present and future?
The beige BOYDE monogram jacquard double breasted tailored suit.
What is your favourite BOYDE design?
We developed a fabric blend that includes wool and cotton with a woven BOYDE monogram for a pin stripe style.
Tell us about your studio.
Some of the notable influences of BOYDE are contemporary art, mid-century furniture, and the elegance of day-to-day minimalism. So, when we curated the space we had to keep that in mind. It is a space that allows us to product sample and do our admin duties, whilst admiring our creations.
Tell us why you are going to the Karoo Winter Wool Festival?
The Karoo Winter Wool Festival is all about celebrating natural fibres and all things authentically Karoo. We will be showing our latest offering of wool knits and mohair developments. We see this as an extension of our dedication to produce and offer sustainable garments that are locally sourced and manufactured.
