Iming Lin is the farmer and co-founder of Meuse Farm — a small but mighty farm in Cape Town’s lush, urban foothills. Since 2020, Iming has been nurturing a natural dye garden on the farm where she experiments with plant knowledge that offers a lens into new conscious fashion practices.

Iming Lin is the farmer and co-founder of Meuse Farm in Hout Bay. Credit: Bruce Tuck

Naturally dye clothing has been around for thousands of years. But since the 1850s, synthetic dyes have been used to colour fabrics and provide a plethora of choices. These have made the dying of fabrics easier, long-lasting and more cost effective. Now, with the growing concern of the degradation of the environment, people are looking for non-toxic, biodegradable, renewable and nature-friendly alternatives to synthetic dyes.

Enter natural dyes and dye gardens.

In the dye garden at Meuse Farm, you’ll find Japanese indigo, madder, dyers marigold, dyer’s coreopsis, tango cosmos, dyer’s scabiosa, and hopi black dye sunflower. These are some of the many plants that can produce natural chemicals for dyeing. Other natural dyes can be derived from insects, animals, microbes and minerals.

A view of the dye farm on Meuse Farm in Hout Bay where you’ll find Japanese indigo, madder, dyers marigold, dyer’s coreopsis, tango cosmos, dyer’s scabiosa, and hopi black dye sunflower. Credit: Stella Hertantyo

The biggest critique of natural dyes is that they are not scalable or replicable at scale, but right now that might not be the point. Iming has learnt to see the farm as an entry point for curiosity and questioning our current systems. “A farm is a place where people can have first contact with new ideas and ways of living. I want the farm to feel physically accessible through visits and information sharing,” says Iming.

In this way, the Meuse Farm’s dye garden has become an educational tool for shifting our fashion values. The process often begins with fostering a connection to place which is the starting point for locally tailored, harmonious processes.

Weaving artist, researcher and natural dye enthusiast Sibabalwe Ndlwana says, “Working with natural dyes is one of the easiest ways of connecting with the cycle of our local ecologies and biodiversity. It is a way to look for sustainable solutions to possibly shift and design out environmental pollution and promote non-toxic material processes and water-waste systems. Without healthy ecosystems we cannot produce textiles made from cotton, wool, mohair, leather, and much more, sustainably.”

Sibabalwe Ndlwana hosts natural dye workshops, like this one in Kirstenbosch Gardens. Image supplied by Sibabalwe

“In my natural dyeing work, I am often reminded to start where I am. And in the case, I am located in the Western Cape, a region known for a biodiverse and unique indigenous floral kingdom, Fynbos. There is an opportunity to explore, learn, be inspired, and collaborate from here,” says Sibabalwe.

There are challenges and questions about natural dyes. The one is that land might be used for the fashion industry that should be used for producing food. This could be overcome by using food and farm waste as a foundation for natural dyeing instead of using land for growing plant dye crops.  Additionally, “By incorporating food waste into the dyeing process, waste can be reduced,” says Nisha van der Hoven, architect and founder of Hoven. “In the process of sourcing the raw materials or ingredients for natural dyes, one can establish purpose-driven initiatives, and collaborate with local communities across the supply chain, including farmers, markets, and food businesses — connecting farms to fashion and encouraging a circular economy,” says Nisha.

Iming says that one of the biggest hurdles when it comes to natural dyes is how to make the lack of colour fastness and uniformity unique selling points of a garment — instead of seeing them as design flaws. This is where the skill of designers plays a key role.

Mother of Gao designer Katlego Mokwana recently showcased a naturally dyed collection at South African Fashion Week. “My experience using food waste as a natural dye has been very eventful. I started experimenting with turmeric and beetroot skins. I later learned that some of these materials tend to fade away,” says Katlego. “Using tea bags and onion skins prove to be a much more sustainable practice for me.”

Fashion designer, Katlego Mokwena and founder of Mother of Gao recently showcased a naturally dyed collection at South African Fashion Week. Credit: Eunice Driver for SA Fashion Week 

Iming says that the origins of the natural dye garden came from wanting to grow something that would be profitable, but also attract beneficial insects to contribute to the overall health of the farm. The natural dye plants also assist with a healthy farm system through companion planting. Companion planting is the process of planting different crops in proximity to each other for several different reasons, including weed suppression, pest control, pollination, providing habitat for beneficial insects, maximising the use of space, and otherwise increasing crop productivity.

For example, marigolds are a common natural dye source. Marigold companion planting enhances the growth of basil, broccoli, cabbage, cucumbers, eggplant, gourds, kale, potatoes, squash, and tomatoes. It’s through understanding the connections between the systems that we begin to create holistic solutions — from farm to food, to fashion.

Natural dyes might not yet be at a point where they can be scaled for industrial use. But they are an accessible first contact and a point for experimentation and questioning.

• Feature image of Meuse Farm in Hout Bay. Credit: Ashley Newell
• Visit Mother of Gao here
• Find out more about Sibabalwe Ndlwana’s work here