The first thing you will notice about local brand BY PHUME’s designs is that they are unafraid to go against the grain. Started by Phumelela Malinga, a mechanical engineering graduate Design Indaba Emerging Creatives almuni, BY PHUME is committed to bold design, quality craftsmanship, and colour.
We chatted to Phumelela about his career pivot and the story behind his gender-neutral brand.
What inspired you to start BY PHUME?
BY PHUME started as a passion project and a space where I could bring conceptual design ideas to life. My motivation was the lack of innovative design and variety of prints, cuts and colours in menswear retail departments. I wanted to fill that gap.
Tell us about your decision to create gender-neutral garments.
When we released our first few designs, lots of different people were drawn to them and wanted to invest in our garments – not just men. That’s when I realised, I wanted BY PHUME to be a gender-neutral brand. It makes our clothes more inclusive, which is something we take pride in.
Creating gender-neutral clothing also makes a lot of sense for start-up brands, because you can widen your market without having to adapt your designs.
What is a common misconception about gender-neutral clothing?
In my experience, men tend to think that gender-neutral clothing is for women. I wish men were more adventurous with how they dressed and that became the norm.
How would you describe BY PHUME’s design style?
BY PHUME’s slogan is “make a statement”. Essentially, BY PHUME’s design philosophy is to produce bold and eye-catching designs, make a statement, and turn heads. I think our design style is best described as refined afro grunge.
Tell us about the evolution of your brand?
When BY PHUME started, it was meant for the man who was not afraid to wear textiles that are rich in colour and prints. Certainly, our first collection called “Finery” reflects that.
Over time, consumers have also evolved and become more sophisticated, and so have our designs. You will see that our latest collections are more refined and lean on the design aspect more than the bold textile colours and prints to make a statement.
What messages are you sending to consumers through your designs?
Our designs are handmade in South Africa and the execution of our pieces is high-quality, so there’s the African pride aspect.
Through our gender-neutral approach, we are also preaching inclusivity.
Our designs are unique and, more often than not, start a conversation. We want our consumers to embody the confidence communicated by our pieces.
Our packaging is sustainable so we want our consumers to have one eye on the preservation of the earth for future generations to enjoy.
How do you ensure that your brand is slow, sustainable, and ethical?
The brand is naturally slow, because we don’t have a large budget like legacy brands. So, we have to work within our limits and produce small batches.
BY PHUME uses ethically sourced fabrics as well as sustainable packaging to reduce its environmental footprint. We even encourage our customers to wear our items 2-3 times before washes to save water.
Who are a few of your favourite local designers?
A few include Rich Mnisi, Thebe Magugu, Amanda Laird Cherry, Wanda Lephoto, Mantsho, and Tshepo Jeans.
What are some of your other interests?
I have a huge interest in motorsports, particularly single-seater racing. That’s what lead me to study mechanical engineering. I also love music and I am a musician too! So, on any given day, I’ll either be listening to or creating music.
What is one message you would like to share with young South African designers?
Have the audacity to go for your dreams. Start small and upskill yourself in the field in which you want to be competent. Lastly, never give up even when opportunities are scarce, because if you’re good at what you do, someone will eventually say, “We are looking for you!”
- Images supplied by Phumelela Malinga
- To learn more about BY PHUME, follow them on Instagram.
