Allfashion Sourcing Cape Town, an annual trade show, casts light on a globalised and complex supply chain with most product exhibited last week from China and other countries. Operating under German company Messe Frankfurt, the show facilitates business-to-business networking and marketing for traders across the clothing and textiles supply chains. This year’s event took place at the Cape Town International Convention Centre from 8 – 10 July.
The South African government has been incentivising local manufacturing of clothing and textiles in an effort to grow the economy and create jobs. Even as it has done this, imports have increased. The concern with clothing and textile imports is that they flood the market, undermine local manufacturers, and contribute to job losses. Speaking to Twyg, director of research at SA Clothing and Textile Workers’ Union Simon Eppel says, “After a period of stability we are seeing an increase in imports which is putting pressure on local manufacturers.”
Bucking the trend, The Foschini Group has increased its local production, creating employment. At Allfashion Sourcing, the group exhibited products manufactured by its factories. Image supplied by TFG
South Africa’s biggest trading partner for clothing, textiles and fibres is China. According to the trade statistics from the South African Revenue Service, imports from China in 2024 were valued at over R40 billion and exports to China were valued at just less than R5 billion. (This is for all raw fibres, textiles and finished goods for textiles and clothing). Over that period, the number of formal clothing and textiles jobs decreased from 76 518 to 75 762 (and since then it has further declined to 74 630), according to StatsSA. The average salary in this sector for the first quarter of 2025 is R12 546.
While the Retail–Clothing Textile Footwear Leather Master Plan 2030 is the instrument agreed by government and industry stakeholders to help grow the industry, it is currently underfunded. Simon says that the masterplan has paused most of its activities while funding is being secured. Executive director of The National Clothing Retail Federation Michael Lawrence says, “The masterplan needs resourcing to give better effect to achieving the full spectrum of its objectives which contribute to greater local sourcing by retail.”
In an email interview, Allfashion Sourcing Cape Town show director Melissa Lewis says, “International exhibitors occupied 900 square metres, primarily from China, with representation also from India, the USA, and Italy. The Lesotho Pavilion covered 135 square metres, showcasing 16 companies, and the African Leather and Leather Products Institute supported four companies.”
Melissa says that local participation doubled from 2024, occupying 576 square metres of exhibition space.
Proudly South Africa, Department Trade and Industry and Eastern Cape Development Corporation showcased local brands. Taking up prime positions in the centre of the main exhibit hall, Nedbank and The Foschini Group featured stands alongside a fashion runway.
TFG showcased product manufactured by its own factories. In a speech at the event, the company’s head of design and manufacturing Jacqui Moriarty, said that TFG’s local (South Africa and neighbouring Southern African Development Community) clothing manufacturing increased from 79% in 2024 to 82% in 2025. She said that with the right equipment and skills, anything is possible. “Our factories reflect the strength of local partnerships and the future of SA manufacturing,” she said.
Jackie May speaks to Nicole Nyalungu of Nic&Nic at the Nedbank stand at Allfashion Sourcing. Image supplied by Allfashion Sourcing
Notable small South African brands on display included Andy’s Glam, from the Eastern Cape, producing crocheted handbags. Sustainable and social impact brands included Nic&Nic from Mmpulanga and LillyLoompa. The former produces upcycled rubber accessories on their off-the-grid small holding in Mpumalanga. LillyLoompa also showcased woven baskets from hyacinth water lilies harvested in waterways in Soweto.
Along with the exhibitors, a programme of keynote speakers, fashion shows and panel discussions, the event hosts an annual Young Designers Competition. The 2025 winner is Ruan Goosen, who used natural dyeing, textile waste and deadstock to create a dress that suggests fashion’s renaissance: from desolation and destruction to survival and art. One of the judges Carlyn Fritelli Davies commented that, “His technical execution was phenomenal, and his final design reflected his philosophy of a fashion renaissance”. In his competition nomination, Ruan wrote that his dress design is about “beauty born from decay, strength through resourcefulness, and the power of transformation”.
From left to right: Head of investment and trade at City of Cape Town Faith Kolala with the winner of the Young Designer’s Competition Ruan Goosen; a model wearing the winning dress; judge Carlyn Frittelli Davies and Neil Piper head of marketing and content at Allfashion Sourcing
Looking ahead to 2026 Melissa says, “We aim to attract more international buyers through a funded inbound mission, which is already in the planning stages.” She is focussed on expanding the local exhibition footprint to at least one full hall, showcasing what Africa has to offer and bringing world-class sourcing options to South Africa.
In 2018 Messe Frankfurt acquired Source Africa, a sourcing event connecting international buyers with African manufacturers; and ATF Expo, a clothing, textile, and footwear exhibition to create Allfashion Sourcing Cape Town. Melissa says, “Allfashion Sourcing is steadily evolving to meet industry expectations, delivering a dynamic platform aimed at supporting and uplifting the sector.”
TSF Textiles’ Anton Siebrits who attended the trade show says, “It was clearly orientated towards business-as-usual for the retailers and large manufacturers, with economic growth as the key driver. However, the state of the industry demands revolutionary thinking about if, how, and what it produces: so more ‘business unusual’ is needed.”
- Feature image supplied by Allfashion Sourcing: Guests at the trade show watch a fashion show
- Allfashion Sourcing 2026 takes place 3 – 5 June 2026 at the CTICC
