Fast fashion teaches that creativity requires abundance. You have to have more to do more—more clothing, more trends, more newness. Refreshingly, South African slow fashion designer, Katlego Mokwana, began her brand to remind us that this is simply not true. “Creativity can thrive, even within boundaries,” she says.

Based in the Vaal Triangle, Katlego’s brand, Mother of Gao, prides itself on creating capsule collections. The brand focuses on designing a few versatile pieces, made well. Operating on a made-to-order model, their garments are only produced once an order has been placed—limiting waste and reinforcing the adage that good things take time.

The future of the planet depends on a deep-seated respect for earthly boundaries. Slow fashion is a response to this, insisting that we don’t have to exploit the planet and people to create beauty. “Often limits allow us to get creative because we know we have to do more with less,” she says.

Founder Katlego Mokwana in a Mother of Gao linen dress

Katlego’s understanding of sustainability and creativity is innate, owing to her grandparents, who preserved and reused items in inventive ways. But it was during a Textiles 101 class at fashion school—when she learned that the fashion industry is the third worst polluter in the world—that she began to ask herself: “In what ways can I become a fashion designer and not contribute to harming the planet?”

At Mother of Gao, this means using organic materials, and natural fibres, upcycling old scraps into detailing for new garments, creating trans-seasonal pieces, and encouraging people to experiment with playful styling. Natural dying and eco-printing have also always been a part of the brand’s blueprint, experimenting with everything from black beans to marigolds.

Four years in, Katlego has realised that integrating sustainability into a thriving business is not always an easy path. With growing interest in the brand and increasing orders, she’s navigating how to grow and expand sustainably—especially since she has historically handled everything herself. “Now I have to dye at a larger scale and consider keeping stock instead of making from scratch each time,” she reflects.

She is currently conducting research and development while working on her next collection, which will prioritise wardrobe staples with a twist. “I want each of my garments to have a signature element that everyone can recognise as indisputably Mother of Gao,” she says. Currently, this is a flower applique that nods to her appreciation of nature.

Mother of Gao on the South African Fashion Week runway for the Mr Price New Talent Search Competition

Returning to the brand’s experimental origins, she’s also exploring ways we can apply sustainable methods to mainstream techniques by incorporating natural dyes into screen printing.

In 2025, Katlego is ready to take the next leap forward with her brand. With the prize money she won from winning the Emerging Designer Award presented by H&M at the 2024 Twyg Sustainable Fashion Awards, Katlego plans to hire a seamstress, buy fabric in bulk, invest in an industrial machine, work on more collaborative projects, and search for a studio for the brand to call home.

“Watch this space,” she says. “And let’s get good at being creative with what we already have.”

• All images provided by Mother of Gao. (Runway shots are from Eunice Driver / SA Fashion Week)