The 2024 winners of the Twyg Sustainable Fashion Awards were announced at a stylish, well-attended event held at the prestigious Mount Nelson, A Belmond Hotel in Cape Town on 20 November 2024. This year 10 exceptional category champions took their place in the spotlight, with one outstanding candidate hailed as the overall winner.
Judged by the Twyg panel of local and international adjudicators, the awards honour the trailblazers who are making their mark on South Africa’s sustainable fashion industry by promoting a future that is sustainable, circular, regenerative, caring and ethical. Jackie May, founder of Twyg, says: “This year’s Sustainable Fashion Award winners are not merely creators – they are reshaping the fashion landscape with integrity, innovation, and a profound dedication to both people and the planet. Their work demonstrates that style and sustainability are not just compatible, but vital to the ongoing evolution of the industry.”
The overall Changemaker Award presented by Markham went to Lezanne Viviers of VIVIERS Studio (see featured image).
Before the award was announced, TFG’s James Wilkinson said, “We are here to celebrate the remarkable achievements of those who refuse to accept the status quo, who see not just what is, but what could be—and who dedicate themselves to the very difference between those two. At TFG, and this evening represented by our Markham brand, we are proud to sponsor the “Changemaker Award” that recognises one amongst us whose work challenges the conventions of fashion, breaks down barriers, and creates change that is remarkable.”
Besides Markham, other sponsors of the 2024 Twyg Sustainable Fashion Awards include Country Road, H&M South Africa, Polo South Africa, Husqvarna, Spier and Royal Flush Gin.
These are the remarkable names making their mark as the 2024 award winners:
The Student Award: Apricity
This category is suitable for students who are currently registered at a South African academic institution. Designers can enter using one garment or a collection that addresses the challenges of sustainability in the most exciting and beautiful way. The judging assessment will look for creativity and innovation and will recognise that student designers have the freedom to challenge fashion’s status quo, engaging with environmental, cultural and social responsibilities in a playful and creative way.
Recognised for redefining South African streetwear, Rachel Mia’s Apricity showcases sustainably crafted, avant-garde fashion. This cutting-edge, genderless collection blends global influences with a strong local presence. As part of its prize, Apricity has received a Husqvarna Viking Designer Jade™ 35 sewing and embroidery machine to support and expand its innovative efforts.
Finalists
Emerging Designer Award presented by H&M South Africa: Mother of Gao
This category is suitable for young emerging designers who are in the early stages of establishing their brands. Designers can enter using one garment or a collection that addresses the challenges of sustainability in the most exciting and beautiful way. The judging assessment will look at creativity and innovation and at how young designers are engaging with environmental, cultural and social responsibilities. The judges will also consider the designers’ commercial potential and promise to contribute to the future of sustainable fashion. The designers should have been creating fashion and testing their markets for no more than three years, and should have made new garments/collections in the last 12 months and before August 2024.
Awarded for its exceptional production processes and singular design integrity, the Mother of Gao collection is distinguished by its naturally dyed textiles, striking clothing and accessories, and chemical-free printing. A R100 000 prize from H&M will further empower the brand to enhance its sustainable practices and scale its creative vision.
Finalists
Accessory Award: Athena A
This award recognises an accessory brand that implements ethical labour practices, avoids toxic chemicals, considers end-of-life and uses sustainable materials to create a quality item. Ideally, materials used are locally sourced, recyclable or recycled materials. The quality, durability, creativity and innovative design of the nominated brands will be assessed.
Examples of accessories are jewellery, belts, cuff links and studs, sunglasses, gloves, handbags, hats and headwear, neckties, purses, socks and stockings, and veils. Although shoes and boots are sometimes categorised as accessories, we have a separate footwear category.
Renowned for its commitment to eco-responsibility and premium craftsmanship, Athena A is a South African luxury jewellery brand that combines mythology-inspired designs with environmentally conscious practices. Its intricate pieces are crafted from recycled brass and ethically sourced Ankole cow horn.
Finalists
Footwear Award: Sage & Sunday
This category recognises a brand, cobbler or designer who makes shoes and implements ethical labour practices, limits toxic chemicals, considers end-of-life and creates a quality and durable item. Ideally, materials are locally sourced, recyclable or recycled materials. The category also includes repairers of shoes. The quality, durability, creativity and innovative design of the nominated brands or shoes will be assessed.
A Cape Town-based hemp clothing and footwear company committed to quality, transparency and sustainability, Sage & Sunday sells a range of world-class footwear made with renewable materials, fair labour practices and minimal toxic chemicals.
Finalists
Trans-seasonal Design Award presented by COUNTRY ROAD: GUGUBYGUGU
This award recognises a collection, garment or brand that promotes trans-seasonal, multi-functionality and versatile style. It rewards quality design that aspires to be timeless and is made to last, i.e. design that transcends seasons. This category also recognises brands that remain invested in garments after their sale, for example, through the provision of lifetime guarantees and repair services. It supports slower production cycles through trendless fashion and timeless, well-made pieces that will last. The purpose of this category is to encourage the fashion industry to move away from the fast-paced, trend-driven nature of traditional fashion cycles.
GUGUBYGUGU is known for its timeless, wear-resistant designs made via a slow production process. With its ethical systems and inspiring community initiatives, GUGUBYGUGU embodies versatility, quality and purpose.
Finalists
Farm-to-Fashion Award: Yarnh
This category celebrates a brand or designer who is committed to cultivating transparent and traceable supply chains and advocating for regenerative and sustainable textile practices. The farm-to-fashion movement advocates for rebuilding localised, natural fibre textile systems and supply chains. The garments created should be made from 100% natural fabric, no fossil-fuel-based synthetics and as few toxins and chemicals as possible. The purpose of this category is to promote a holistic view of sustainability in the fashion industry, encouraging practices that consider the environmental and social impacts of fashion from the very first stages of production on the farm.
Yarnh shines for its commendable practices: 100% natural fabric, no fossil fuel-based synthetics and as few toxins and chemicals as possible. Its commitment to sustainability extends far beyond manufacturing, addressing financial and socio-economic advancements in the fashion sector.
Finalists
Retail Award: 44 Stanley
This award recognises a retailer or retailing initiative that enhances and supports sustainability and circularity through selling pre-loved and gently worn clothes, swap shops, garment rental, and similar commercial and non-commercial activities that keep clothes in use for as long as possible. The award is also open to retailers who support local producers and designers, vertical and regional supply chains and sustainable design and manufacturing. It also recognises the implementation of sustainable practices within retail operations.
In downtown Johannesburg, 44 Stanley is a mixed-use development of restaurants, curated stores and offices. It has a world-class offering and commendable transparency in championing local, ethically made design.
Finalists
Tastemaker Award: Thobeka Mbane
Tastemakers decide or influence what is, or will become, fashionable. This award recognises a photographer, stylist, influencer, or content creator who has actively promoted slow, sustainable fashion and/or slow living over the last 12 months and who has sparked relevant conversations. This person is helping to shift our fashion aspirations and is contributing to a sustainable fashion ecosystem by amplifying alternative fashion practices in the media. The Tastemaker supports slow fashion habits and conscious local businesses while promoting these 5Rs (reduce, repair, refashion, reuse, recycle). The judges will also look at how the fashion content intersects with issues such as race, diversity, inclusion, identity, and culture.
Thobeka Mbane is a highly regarded South African fashion stylist and cultural strategist known for her vibrant, unconventional approach. She has worked with influential figures such as Zozibini Tunzi, Sho Madjozi, and Nomzamo Mbatha, blending traditional African elements with modern fashion trends to create unique and impactful looks.
Finalists
Innovative Design and Materials Award presented by POLO South Africa: Stephanie Bentum
This award seeks to recognise a designer of clothes and/or textiles who is pioneering sustainable practices or technologies. For instance, this designer could be using creative pattern-making, introducing new technologies, innovating new business models, applying reconstruction techniques, innovating new materials and techniques, or returning to old, sustainable and cultural practices. If the innovative approach is not original, the innovation being adopted in a contemporary design should be acknowledged. Judges will consider the potential impact of the innovation. The purpose of this category is to highlight and reward those who are pushing boundaries and leading the charge in reimagining what fashion can be.
Stephanie Bentum’s family is rooted in the history of South Africa’s wool industry. Since 2009, she uses this ancient fibre to create functional, sculptural and organic designs, in particular, the technique of felting, since 2009. The handmade nature of her designs reflects a commitment to an environmentally sustainable lifestyle, coupled with textile developments based on innovation and experimentation in design and materials. Merino sheep and Angora Goats for Wool and Mohair respectively, are raised locally in South Africa and source greasy wool from farmers following animal friendly practices. Clean and combed wool, which forms the basis for most of her fabrics, due to its felting abilities, is often carded or hand applied fibre blends which may include hemp, silk, mohair and Alpaca required for distinct textiles.
Finalists
Nicholas Coutts Artisanal Fashion Award: VIVIERS
This award honours the late designer Nicolas Coutts, who beautifully used and explored traditional crafts and techniques in his design. To celebrate his legacy, this award recognises a designer who uses artisanal craft techniques such as weaving, embroidery, botanical dyeing or another artisanal practice to make fashion that foregrounds, celebrates and values the culture and skills of the people who make the garments. Craft is a living example of slow-paced, resource-mindful and socially and culturally sustainable production. The purpose of this category is to recognise the contribution to preserving skills while also integrating them into the modern fashion landscape. This category also promotes a deeper appreciation for the time, skill, and cultural heritage embedded in each handcrafted piece, encouraging consumers to value and invest in artisanal fashion.
VIVIERS celebrates the artistry of garment workers and local communities through its made-to-order artisanal pieces. Known for inventive, conceptual items crafted in limited editions, these wearable art pieces challenge conventional notions of beauty while showcasing the highest level of craftsmanship. In honour of the late Nicholas Coutts, the Coutts family has generously contributed a R10 000 prize to support the brand in advancing its mission and amplifying its impact. (Image by Eunice Driver for SA Fashion Week.)
Finalists
Changemaker Award presented by Markham: VIVIERS
In addition to winning the Nicholas Coutts Artisanal Fashion Award, VIVIERS was also named this year’s overall winner. Each year, the overall winner is chosen from among the category winners and is selected by the judges based on the highest overall score. This coveted accolade earns the winner R100 000 in cash as the prize, courtesy of Markham.
“We’d like to congratulate all our winners on their remarkable efforts to date. They offer a hopeful perspective on the exciting changes that can happen within South Africa’s fashion industry in 2025,” says May.
Once the winners were announced at the event, guests stayed on to celebrate, network and explore the on-site fashion display presented by Markham. The retailer’s brand design team curated a custom collection of three eco-friendly, future-forward looks especially for the evening. Spier wines from its biodynamic farm filled the glasses and mixologists crafted exquisite cocktails with Royal Flush Gin.
Judging criteria
In general, the awards seek to celebrate designers who are implementing sustainable, circular and regenerative approaches to design with care and empathy. They also seek to celebrate designers who foster ethical practices, who help create employment, and who are sensitive to cultural and place-appropriate design. The awards show its support of environmental, social and cultural sustainability in a very complex industry. They recognise the courage and commitment it takes to overcome challenges in this industry, in South Africa.
- Winners of the 2023 Awards may not apply for 2024.
- The competition is open to residents of South Africa aged 18 years or over.
- Nominees should be able to demonstrate:
-
- Finished, quality fashion garments, accessories, and/or collections;
- Ethical labour practices, including fair compensation among others;
- Transparency in design and manufacturing practices, use of resources and in sourcing of materials;
- A position on climate change, pollution and environmental damage;
- Besides the Student, Emerging Designer and Tastemaker categories, designers, businesses, or brands should have been operating for at least two years, and should have made new garments/collections in the last 12 months and before August 2024.
-
- The judges score each entry against criteria specified in the Rules and Regulations document. This process is followed by a rigorous discussion.
- The Awards contest is audited by advocate John Shija to ensure the principles of transparency, objectivity, fairness and equity to the judges, the entrants, and its sponsors are applied.
- The Tastemaker and Retail awards are not for designers specifically but can include designers.
- Feature image by The Dollie House.
- Other images supplied by designers including images by Henry Marsh and Eunice Drive for SA Fashion Week as credited
