At the heart of the circular fashion future lies the concept of upcycling. Upcycling, in practice, involves transforming discarded materials or products into new items of higher value or quality. It is a creative and innovative way to give new life to materials that would otherwise end up in landfills or incinerators. By repurposing and reimagining these materials, upcycling presents a compelling solution to the wasteful nature of the traditional linear fashion model.
With this in mind, we have compiled a listicle of local fashion designers who recognise the value and potential of every garment. We gain insight into their approach to upcycling, materials of choice, and the challenges and pitfalls of this creative process.
The One of One Collection
The One of One Collection, a fashion fluid brand, has embraced upcycling as a core principle, blending art and fashion to create unique, one-of-a-kind pieces. The brand’s founder, Lesedi Nape began upcycling during their university years by customising their own clothes. This initial step towards showcasing personal style eventually led to thrifting items and combining materials to create something entirely new.
The One of One Collection views clothing as a canvas for individual expression, creating garments that are subject to interpretation and rooted in emotion. Each piece is a custom, exclusive creation, making them unique and timeless. When sourcing materials for upcycling, Lesedi explores fabric stores, thrift stores, textile studios, and even their own closet. Through research and exploration, eco-friendly fabric paint is utilised, and designs are crafted to be multipurpose and fluid.
Lesedi mentions that the temptation to succumb to the fast fashion process in pursuit of financial gain poses a constant conflict. They recognise the moral obligation to prioritise artistry and contribute to society, rather than exploit it. “I also find myself subconsciously battling with the temptation of feeding into the process of fast fashion to make more money more quickly but then I’m reminded that I am making art pieces which implies a level of moral obligation that shouldn’t be rushed. I genuinely enjoy designing and making these garments so I would hate for that feeling to be destroyed by my own ignorance. The intention is to contribute to society through this form of art and not to take from it.”
Learn more about The One of One Collection here.
Xavier Sadan
In the world of fashion, every garment tells a story, and this concept is at the heart of local brand, Xavier Sadan’s, approach. Designer and owner of Xavier Sadan, Michael Peter Reid, creates in limited quantities, often creating one-of-a-kind pieces, allowing him to experiment and innovate menswear. Instead of hiding flaws, Michael transforms them into beautiful design elements. A tear in the fabric becomes the lines of a mountain, adding depth and character.
Michael says, “The art of upcycling is ingrained in our childhood. Just as we break down Lego bricks to rebuild them into something new, I find it easier to start with upcycling fashion rather than creating garments from scratch.”
Working with non-stretch fabrics like denim is a preference, as they age gracefully, with distress adding to their allure. Michael’s choice of textures and tones further elevates the final product. Materials for upcycling are sourced from old fabric off-cuts, swatches, and the treasure troves of thrift stores.
“I’ve been criticised for not being commercial enough but when I made a very commercial collection it just didn’t feel authentic. I would love to see upcycling specific competitions or platforms for young designers to highlight this unique category of sustainability.” Despite this criticism, the designer stays true to an authentic vision, even if it means diverging from mainstream expectations.
Throughout his upcycling journey, adaptability and embracing a fabric’s inherent nature are key lessons Michael has learned. In the South African market where upcycling is viewed negatively, monetising this work can be challenging. “I’ve been fortunate to find people who appreciate the art of upcycling and I wouldn’t be where I am without the patronage of Yasmin Furmie and Felipe Mazibuko, to name a few,” Michael says.
Learn more about Xavier Sadan here.
fashion.students.archive
fashion.students.archive is founder Maryam Agherdien’s creative outlet and a space for exploration. Her passion for upcycling began at an early age when she was cutting up and altering secondhand garments. This fuelled her curiosity and love for transforming clothing and for learning from a combination of self-exploration, curiosity, and YouTube tutorials.
When it comes to materials, Maryam enjoys working with every kind of fabric, recognising that each has its own qualities and applications. Sourcing materials involves building relationships with local seamstresses and manufacturers who provide offcuts, as well as exploring the offcut sections of fabric stores.
When asked her thoughts on how upcycling could be made easier for both consumers and creators, Maryam says education and knowledge sharing will help. “Designers and creators should take back their creations back whether it is for upcycling purposes or to resell and make available second hand, or for small fixes,” Maryam says. She adds that while such initiatives would increase accessibility, they require time and resources, which can be a significant constraint, especially in South Africa.
The most interesting lesson Maryam says she’s learned through upcycling is the power of time, intention, and effort in creating beautiful, appreciated, and long-lasting garments. But, the general lack of appreciation for upcycled garments in the public is a challenge. Many people believe that new is better, resulting in difficulties selling upcycled pieces.
“An individual can’t fight every sustainable battle,” says Maryam. “As a designer I choose to upcycle and lessen the weight of fabric waste on the world. As a consumer, the choice to invest in upcycled fashion is always better than investing in fast fashion.”
Learn more about fashion.students.archive here.
Rebirth
Since 2018 Rebirth has been on mission to create unique, staple pieces using natural, organic textiles, and resources.
Growing up in a family involved in upholstery and clothing manufacturing, the journey of upcycling began for the founder, Jesmine Davids, during childhood. “Creating and upcycling became second nature, starting with making garments for dolls from waste fabrics and gradually expanding into bags, pillows, jackets, and more,” Jesmine recalls.
When it comes to materials, Rebirth finds joy in working with denim despite its reputation as a toxic fabric. By using denim as a teaching tool, Jesmine aims to reduce landfill waste and explore ways to produce virgin denim. The materials that she uses for upcycling projects are sourced from thrift stores and donations from customers through social media platforms.
To make upcycling more accessible for consumers and creators, Jesmine suggests implementing upcycling bins and promoting mending and swapping initiatives in retail stores to normalise upcycling.
Despite the progress made in the upcycling movement, Jesmine says that challenges still exist, such as difficulties in sourcing authentic organic fabrics and the lack of consumer understanding and appreciation for the labour and principles behind upcycled products.
“The most interesting lesson I learned and which I am still learning through upcycling is the ability to create from available resources without harming anyone or anything. It teaches designers to use their materials wisely and purposefully, rather than creating for a quick profit,” Says Jesmine.
Learn more about Rebirth here.
Megan Art
Megan Art’s, upcycling adventure commenced during her second year of studies at Elizabeth Galloway College of Fashion. Faced with financial constraints, Megan decided to work with the fabric available at home, sparking a shift in her design approach. This experience not only proved challenging but also opened her eyes to the importance of sustainability in the fashion industry.
It was during her final year, while working on the Spoke Collection, that Megan’s practical understanding of upcycling truly flourished. Sourcing curtains from a local charity shop, she transformed this humble fabric into her entire range, from linings to outer garments.
When it comes to materials, Megan has a particular affinity for 100% cotton fabric which she acquires from Fabric Friends – a local fabric store specialising in secondhand offcuts from suppliers and factories – or from friends and colleagues. Occasionally, Megan explores charity shops like Ons Winkel for unique and unconventional fabrics to incorporate into her designs.
“Social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok have made upcycling more accessible by providing DIY tutorials, but transparency and affordability remain concerns,” she comments.
The most fascinating aspect of upcycling, according to this Megan, is the realisation that there are no rules and the freedom that comes with that. Upcycling unleashes unlimited possibilities and encourages experimentation with various materials. Even unexpected choices like upholstery fabrics and tyres can be transformed into beautiful and unique pieces.
Learn more about Megan Art here.
Rethread
Founded by Alexa Schempers, Rethread combines two methods for making upcycled clothing: alteration/re-tailoring and fabrication, cutting, and sewing. Denim, suiting, and men’s shirts are the materials they most commonly use.
“Initially, these items were found locally in thrift and charity stores, but as the business grew, we began sourcing from bigger suppliers all over the country,” says Alexa. To make upcycling more accessible, infrastructures catering to designers and production facilities are needed, as reliance on capital and resources often limits scale.
Alexa also points out that post-consumer clothing waste is often difficult to work with and requires extensive sorting before becoming viable for upcycling. The complexity of upcycling and hand-making of each garment brings its own set of challenges, from the time and effort involved to the difficulty of scaling up the process.
“Upcycling is a language of love. It takes longer, and it is not a simple process. It’s a ‘handmade’ process. From having to pick base pieces one by one, by hand, to unpicking each seam, or fabricating – it’s an art,” Alexa comments, adding, “It is also very challenging to scale. Often each garment is unique so, it needs to be individually photographed and uploaded to your online store, standardising sizing is a challenge, your whole business is controlled by what is available to you at the time. Figuring out how to make such a complex process as simple as possible, is the key.”
Learn more about Rethread here.
TINY TAILOR
Enter Stellenbosch-based creator, Sinead de Haast. Sinead’s garments are a reflection of her commitment to detail and the pursuit of individuality. By drawing inspiration from various sources, she creates visually captivating designs that resonate with her customers on a personal level.
Her approach to upcycling is driven by the desire to give new life to old garments and materials. Collaborating with her mother, who owns a tailoring business in Hermanus, Sinead utilises offcuts from customers’ alterations and curtain shortenings. This innovative approach allows them to repurpose these materials into unique and captivating garments, breathing new life into discarded fabrics.
Sinead’s journey into upcycling began approximately a year ago when she noticed a growing pile of fabric offcuts that she couldn’t bear to throw away. The desire to find a purpose for these materials sparked her passion for upcycling. Initially considered a side project, it soon evolved into a profound exploration of the beauty and creative potential of upcycling. Drawing inspiration from platforms like Pinterest and Instagram, Sinead honed her skills and discovered new techniques to transform discarded fabrics into works of art.
Sourcing materials for upcycling is a multi-faceted process. Charity shops and “kwaai lappies” in Cape Town are treasure troves for finding unique fabrics. Additionally, the designer taps into her network of customers, acquiring offcuts from those who seek alterations from their mother’s tailoring business. This resourcefulness ensures a diverse and sustainable supply of materials.
To make upcycling more accessible and streamlined for both consumers and creators, the Sinead emphasises the importance of creating spaces for upcyclers to connect, share ideas, and collaborate. Whether through online platforms or in-person meet-ups, these communities foster knowledge exchange, inspiration, and support among like-minded individuals.
Learn more about TINY TAILOR here.
- Images: Supplied by designers.
- Megan Art images: Photographed by Chelsea Art, models: Lara Jacobs and Maya Jacobs
- Cover image: Megan Art designs photographed by Chelsea Art, models: Lara Jacobs and Maya Jacobs
