Many fashion brands publicise that they source organic and eco textiles. Words like “eco-friendly”, “sustainably sourced” and “organic” appear on labels and marketing assets to show that they care about the planet and people. But often the use of these “self-claim” terms refers to such a vague aspect of sourcing that they are meaningless. The intention is to hoodwink shoppers into buying “green” fashion. This is called greenwashing.

For this reason, certified organic textiles have become increasingly important to the credibility of the sustainable fashion and textile industry. Not only do these textiles come with a label to assure consumers that the product is made responsibly, but these certifications ensure that the natural fiber raw material such as cotton or wool is sourced from certified organic farms that do not allow the use of harmful fertilisers, pesticides and insecticides, and protect animal welfare.

Women cotton workers in Vietnam (Photo: Quang Nguyen Vinh / Pexels) 

Why should we care? Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) representative in Africa Muktar Dodo says, “We all ‘live downstream’ and share the same water and air”. This means that we are all affected by what happens in textile factories and on farms. He adds that, “all those who make our clothes, textile workers and farmers, deserve to be protected from hazardous chemicals used in farming and textile processing. The end consumer is also at risk of exposure to these chemical residues on finished textile products, hence the need for a meticulous label such as GOTS that specifies strict ecological and social criteria in textile manufacturing.”

The amount of chemicals used by the textile agriculture industry makes up a large part of pesticides used globally which, according to IFOAM Organics Europe, can cause health symptoms such as eye and skin irritation, and other systemic reactions such as blurred vision, general weakness and insomnia.  There are arguments, including those made by the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development, that improper and excessive use of chemical fertilisers and pesticides carry significant costs not only to human health but to the environment including to loss of biodiversity and ecological degradation.

Spearheaded by Gen-Z and millennials, people who shop are becoming increasingly aware of the environmental and social consequences of the current fashion industry and are demanding alternative, sustainable and responsible options.

GOTS is committed to mainstream organic textile solutions to mitigate the negative impact of the textile and fashion industry.  As the worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibres, it provides the market and the producer with a comprehensive certification process that ensures ecological and social criteria have been met throughout the entire textile supply chain.

In short, the ecological criteria of GOTS require all chemicals used in the processing of the textiles to be non-toxic, non-hazardous, and biodegradable. The social criteria require textile processors to commit to upholding international labour laws and human rights standards.

This holistic evaluation proves mutually beneficial to all stakeholders in the supply chain.  Muktar says, “When using organically produced materials, farm workers and the environment are protected. When manufacturing without hazardous chemicals, factory workers and the environment are protected. When there are no harmful residues in the end product, consumers are protected.”

So, how exactly is organic farming better for people and planet?

Organic agriculture is a farming system that relies on the natural fertility of the soil and uses methods such as crop rotation, natural pest control, and composting instead of synthetic fertilisers and pesticides.  “Organic farming is intrinsically regenerative,” says Muktar. “Research shows that organically grown textile fibres can have a lower global warming potential compared to conventionally produced fibres that are mostly cultivated through chemically intensive agriculture,” he says. Additionally, organic agriculture improves soil fertility and the amount of soil organic matter, thereby enhancing soil structure and reducing erosion.

But GOTS certification focuses on sustainable practices beyond just sourcing. The rest of the textile industry supply chain also has a significant impact on the environment and workers’ health. Textile processing often results in the discharge of untreated toxic chemicals into the water and air, causing serious health issues for the workers and surrounding communities.

An organic cotton field (Photo: Mark Stebnicki / Pexels)

“GOTS prohibits the use of the kind of chemical inputs commonly used in textile processing that can cause severe health problems and environmental concern.…GOTS requires that all dyes and auxiliaries are assessed to meet strict environmental criteria, as well as low toxicity and high biodegradability prior to getting approved for use,” says Muktar. As of June 2020, there are 24000 GOTS approved trade names for chemicals and auxiliaries. In Bukina Faso, CABES uses GOTS-certified locally grown and transformed cotton and dyes to produce fashion and homeware. In South Africa, Mungo, the Plettenberg-based, homeware textile company is GOTS-certified.

The benefits of organic clothing extend beyond the consumer into the lives of workers and the overall environment, reducing the risk of exposure to harmful chemicals, and promoting a more sustainable future.

Growing a niche market

Although organic clothing and GOTS certification offer significant benefits, the market for organic cotton remains small. In 2018, organic cotton made up just 1.4% of the total cotton market. As such, it is crucial to support organic in-conversion to ensure an adequate supply of organic cotton and other organic textile fibres.

According to Muktar, in-conversion or in-transition refer to the three-year conversion period of land from conventional agriculture to organic, during this period farmers implement organic farming practices.

Mungo is a GOTS-certified homeware textile company based in Plettenberg, South Africa

During this transition, the profitability of these plots of land decrease since they cannot grow officially recognised organic cotton, but the transitioning soil also cannot consistently produce conventional cotton. The GOTS in-conversion label helps to support farmers and their families through this transition phase. It also ensures that the supply is meeting the growing demand for organic fibres in the supply chain.

GOTS for small operators

GOTS is making efforts to make its certification, and by extension certified organic textiles, more accessible. Per their press release, “in a pioneering initiative aimed at enhancing accessibility to certification for small operator groups within the organic textile value chain, GOTS is pleased to introduce its ongoing Controlled Supply Chain Scheme (CSCS) Pilot Project.

Under this CSCS framework, a supply chain comprised of a minimum of eight and a maximum of thirty small-scale facilities, each with twenty or fewer workers, could be considered a single Certified Entity after a comprehensive risk assessment by their Certification Body. Sankei Meriyasu, a distinguished Japanese textile manufacturer, recently received GOTS certification through this project. Sankei Meriyasu’s success showcases the tangible impact of the CSCS system in empowering small-scale operators”.

What can you do?

As a shopper, it may seem like the world of agricultural auditing is a far cry from personal purchasing decisions in textiles or fashion. But in understanding the positive impact an expanded organic farming industry could have, choosing to buy organic adds to demand for greener, independently audited and verified supply chains.

When shopping for organic clothing, it’s important to identify the authenticity of the products and distinguish them from industry greenwashing or self-claims. Looking for items with trusted labels (like the GOTS certified brands listed here), is a small but powerful step to ensure credibility of the product and contribute to the growing demand for organic textiles.

Global Organic Textile Standard is a partner of Twyg, and Muktar Dodo presented a talk at the Africa Textile Talks in Cape Town in August 2023. Image by The Dollie House 

• Images: Supplied by GOTS, Pexels, Mungo and the last image is by The Dollie House
• You can explore GOTS certified brands worldwide at www.behindtheseams.eco