Ilkhe du Toit grew up on a Merino sheep farm in Karoo, central South Africa. The fashion and textile designer’s childhood helped her develop an early connection to natural fibres and a deep respect for the resources involved in textile production. She is committed to sustainable design, and grounds her work in addressing the challenges of the industry. “My design approach reimagines the conventional design process by merging textile and garment creation into a cohesive practice. By using textiles as a shape-forming agent in garment development, I am able to achieve zero-waste outcomes.”

We asked Ilke a few questions about her work.

What was your first creative inspiration, and how has it shaped your work as a multidisciplinary designer?

The expansive landscapes of the Karoo grounded my approach as a designer, teaching me to draw inspiration from my environment rather than from mainstream trends. My first collection, The Herder, reflected this with a colour palette inspired by the natural tones of the Karoo. My journey as a designer has also been profoundly shaped by my family. My mother is a visual artist, my sister is a graphic designer, and even my father—though he would never admit it—has a creative side, often contributing new ideas to our projects. Whenever one of us is working on something, it always becomes a family effort, with each of us bringing our unique skills to the table. Those experiences have taught me the value of collaboration and the importance of a strong support system—I wouldn’t be where I am today without them.

Tell us about your fashion film SALT.

SALT delves into the paradox of balance—essential in moderation, yet destructive in excess. Filmed on an evaporated salt pan in the Karoo near my home, the project uses stark imagery to highlight the environmental impact of the fashion industry. Salt, a key element in fabric dyeing, can render landscapes barren when harvested in large quantities. By juxtaposing vibrant garments against this desolate backdrop, the film underscores the weight of our choices, inviting viewers to reflect on their own.

In response to the challenges faced by the fashion industry, I developed the SALT collection, adopting an innovative approach to sustainable design. The collection moves beyond traditional methods and minimises waste by utilising the textile as a shape-forming agent in garment construction. Crafted from 100% RWS-certified Merino wool—biodegradable and fully recyclable—the collection was developed in collaboration with Aalto University (Finland), Marzotto Wool Manufacturers (Italy), and Cape Wools (South Africa). This partnership marks a meaningful step toward a more sustainable future in garment design, where industry leaders come together to thoughtfully consider each component, reducing environmental impact at every stage.

Talk us through your design aesthetic, how these pieces of art came to life and for whom do you design?

In SALT, the fabric played a central role in guiding the design process. Each piece began with an exploration of how the material could naturally shape the garment, allowing the designs to evolve organically in response to the unique possibilities and limitations of the fabric. I aimed to create powerful garments that are bold, feminine, and fashion-forward, showing that sustainability can enhance rather than compromise aesthetics and style. Crafted by a dedicated team of women, these garments are designed for those who embrace sustainability, proving that responsible choices and style can go hand in hand.

How traceable are your materials?

The materials used for the SALT collection are fully traceable, thanks to the transparent supply chain of Marzotto Wool Manufacturers, an Italian weaving mill that exclusively uses RWS-certified wool, ensuring traceability back to the exact farm where the sheep were shorn. The supply chain begins with Marzotto sourcing raw wool from farms in South Africa and Australia. The wool is then transported to Marzotto’s combing mill, Mediterranean Wool Industries, in Egypt, where it is processed into tops. These tops are sent to Nova Mosilana, Marzotto’s spinning mill in the Czech Republic, before returning to Italy for weaving and finishing.

I completed an internship at Marzotto during the summer of 2022, where I spent time in each department, observing every stage of the supply chain. This hands-on experience deepened my appreciation for the material, the craftsmanship, and the people behind it all. Marzotto has become more than just a supplier to me; the factory is a home away from home—not only because the scent of the wool reminds me of our farm in South Africa, but also because of the family-like relationships we have built.

Tell us about your printed fabric collection. Is the process eco-friendly?

The SALT digitally printed fabric collection, created in 2022, was inspired by the environmental impact of finishing processes like dyeing, which requires salt extraction. I explored eco-friendly alternatives, including sublimation transfer and digital printing—both sustainable methods that minimise ink usage, avoid salt, and reduce water consumption. Moreover, to seamlessly integrate print with fabric, I selected over-twisted wool yarns that naturally shrink with heat exposure, allowing the print and fabric to fuse cohesively. Designing for finishes is the future of sustainable fashion. This collection won first prize in Epson’s digital printing competition and laid the foundation for the SALT fashion collection.

What role did studying and interning abroad play in shaping your work?

Studying and working abroad broadened my perspective, revealing that fashion designers need a holistic understanding of textiles and production. This experience emphasised the importance of reintegrating textile studies into the education system to empower designers to make informed, sustainable choices—contributing to a more sustainable fashion industry in South Africa.

When I began specialising sustainably, I realised I needed a deep understanding of what true sustainability entails. Studying at Aalto University—ranked as the top school for sustainable fashion (BoF, 2022)—taught me that sustainable design hinges on selecting or creating fabrics that best suit the purpose of each garment. For instance, if breathability and durability are key, polyester can sometimes be a more sustainable choice than cotton. Ultimately, the most sustainable fabric is the one that encourages the customer to keep and wear the garment the longest.

Who is/are your favourite local fashion designer/s?

Laduma Ngxokolo has always been my greatest inspiration. His mastery in selecting yarns, colours, and knitted structures to craft patterns that celebrate his Xhosa heritage is remarkable. I have immense respect for his journey—securing a scholarship to study at a leading European fashion school and then choosing to return and reinvest his skills into our local economy. Whenever I feel far from home or uncertain, his story serves as a reminder of why I do what I do and inspires me to stay connected to my roots.

Given a chance, what one thing would you change about the world we live in?

I would ensure that everyone has equal opportunities. Nationality, ethnicity, gender, or financial background should not determine or influence the opportunities we have access to, the jobs we can apply for, or the value of our work.

Name three things you do to lower your impact on the planet.

• As a designer, I make it a priority to inform myself and build the knowledge needed to make responsible, informed decisions
• I always consider the environmental impact of my choices, evaluating all alternatives to ensure that I am making the most sustainable decision
• I avoid buying new whenever possible and opt for second-hand items instead

SALT FASHION FILM CREDITS 

• SALT Fashion Film | A Will Venter Film
• Sponsoring Partners: Aalto University, Finland, Marzotto Wool Manufacturers, Italy, Cape Wools, South Africa 
• Fashion and Textile Designer: Ilkhe du Toit
• Videographer and Director: Will Venter
• Models: Katlego Gontse Masike, Lethabo Sara Khunou, Ludina Ngwenya 
• Photographer: Liezl Zwarts
• Photographer Producer: Elisma Uys-Hanekom
• Jewellery Designer: Helaina du Toit
• Stylist: Bernadine Venter 
• Make Up Artist: Nombuso Ngcobo