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Q&A: Abasiekeme Ukanireh of Éki Kéré reimagines sustainable fashion with raffia

by | Dec 27, 2024

Meet Abasiekeme Ukanireh, founder and creative director of Éki Kéré. The Nigerian brand was founded in 2020 to challenge, transform and redefine fashion stereotypes while embracing African heritage and traditions.

Abasiekeme Ukanireh Éki Kéré founder Abasiekeme Ukanireh

Tell us about yourself and why you chose the path of sustainable fashion

As the CEO and Creative Director of Eki Kéré, I’m driven by a passion for sustainable fashion and innovative design. With a degree in Environmental Technology from the Federal University of Technology (FUTO) and a certificate in Circular Fashion from Wageningen University & Research in the Netherlands, I fuse my technical expertise with artistic vision.

My journey began at a tender age, experimenting with fabrics and sewing. After completing my National Youth Service, I revisited this childhood interest and enrolled at a tailoring house. This foundational training empowered me to establish my own studio.

The COVID-19 pandemic sparked a creative awakening. Witnessing fashion designers’ contributions to combat the virus, I started sewing and donating masks to health institutions. Further research led me to explore circular fashion’s potential. Recognising the environmental impact of traditional materials, I pioneered the use of raffia, a biodegradable alternative, in my designs.

Hailing from Ikot Ekpene, a city renowned for its raffia, facilitated access to this sustainable resource. My debut collection culminated in the successful House of Ékii Ekaette runway event in November 2020, marking the birth of Eki Kéré.

Why did you choose to use Raffia as your primary material?

Driven by the alarming environmental impact of the fashion industry, I sought to revolutionise sustainable fashion. I envisioned clothing that, at the end of its life cycle, could seamlessly transition into nutrient-rich manure. Recognising the potential of natural fibres, I delved into research and leveraged my expertise in circular fashion to identify raffia as the ideal material.

Not only does raffia benefit the planet, but it also presents an opportunity to empower my community. This eco-friendly resource, abundant in my hometown, enables me to merge sustainability with social responsibility.

A raffia dress from the Eki Kéré SS2025 collection. Photo by 5:14 Creative Agency

What drives your commitment to artisanal craftsmanship, especially in an African context?

Rooted in the vibrant spirit of Raffia City, my hometown, my designs are a nostalgic journey through time. Each piece captures the essence of this captivating city, reinterpreting its wonders for the modern world.

My brand stands boldly apart, delving into the unexplored depths of African heritage. We fearlessly embrace unconventional materials and techniques, crafting every product into a thought-provoking work of art. Inspiration stems from Africa’s rich craftsmanship, raffia’s versatility, the majestic masquerade culture of my village, experimentation with unconventional materials, and a relentless pursuit of circular, sustainable fashion.

Through my designs, I weave together tradition, innovation, and eco-consciousness, creating a unique narrative that honours African heritage while pushing the boundaries of fashion.

Can you tell us a bit about how you source and dye your fabrics? How do you make sure that this process is as low-impact as possible?

At Eki Kéré, we prioritise not only stylish, functional clothing but also garments that harmonise with our planet. We’re committed to eco-friendly practices, using only fabrics made from organic fibres. Most of our fabrics are sourced from the Northern part of Nigeria. We use recycled fabrics as well as natural dyes in some of our dyed products.

Our designs focus on versatility, creating loose-fitting pieces that adapt to diverse body shapes and changes, reducing waste and promoting longevity.

A look from the Eki Kéré SS2025 collection, titled Matha Afiong Collection: A Tribute to Legacy. Photo by 5:14 Creative Agency

What inspired your most recent collection and how is it different from your previous collections?

Inspired by the women who shaped me, I present the Matha Afiong Collection, named after my mother, Matha, and grandmother, Afiong. These two pillars of my life profoundly influenced my design journey. Childhood memories of my mother’s elegance, particularly her signature long, drippy necklaces, left an indelible mark. To me, she embodied beauty and grace. My grandmother’s effortless style, often in loose-fitted, gathered dresses, instilled in me a love for comfort and sophistication. Spending my early years by her side cemented these impressions.

This collection marks a deliberate shift towards sustainable elegance. I’ve consciously minimised batik print usage, acknowledging its environmental implications, from carbon emissions to wax usage.

Instead, raffia takes centre stage, reimagined in refined, effortless silhouettes. The showstopping piece—a raffia dress paired with a veil—epitomises this new direction. Dedicated to Matha and Afiong, this collection honours the legacy of strong, stylish women who inspire me.

How can fashion play a part in eliminating divisions in our society? In other words, how can the fashion community help heal society?

Fashion plays a vital role in bridging societal divides, and my studio serves as a shining example. In Nigeria, a country rich in diversity with numerous tribes, languages, and religions, our studio has become a melting pot of unity.

Through fashion, we’ve created a space where individuals from diverse backgrounds come together, learn from each other, and cultivate love and acceptance. Our studio is a haven where people from different tribes, religions, and sexual orientations break bread, share laughter, and forge meaningful connections. Beyond our studio, fashion has become a cultural ambassador, showcasing Nigeria and Africa’s vibrant craftsmanship and heritage to the world. Our designs have sparked curiosity, inspiring global interest in our rich cultural tapestry.

Fashion has fostered unity among diverse individuals, broken down social barriers, promoted cross-cultural understanding and showcased African craftsmanship and culture. Through Eki Kéré, I’ve witnessed firsthand the transformative power of fashion in breaking down divisions and building bridges.

The Don Tie-Dye Heavy Cotton Pant and Mama’s Muse Tie-Dye Rope Necklace from Eki Kéré’s SS2025 collection. Photo by 5:14 Creative Agency

What is your idea of a perfectly sustainable garment?

One that prioritises people, planet, and prosperity. It’s crafted from materials that don’t harm the environment or exploit individuals, designed for repeated wear, made from decomposable materials, and priced to ensure fairness for all.

The global fashion industry is known for causing a lot of harm to people and to the planet. How is Eki Kéré contributing to a different fashion narrative?

When discussing sustainable fashion, we often overlook a crucial factor: financial viability. If sustainable fashion initiatives fail to generate sufficient income for their drivers, they risk becoming unsustainable. No matter how well-intentioned, unsustainable livelihoods can’t support sustainable practices. When innovators struggle to survive, they may seek alternative, potentially less sustainable, means of support.

At Eki Kéré, we address this challenge by ensuring fair compensation for our workers and artisans. Providing a food programme for our production staff and crafting aesthetically pleasing sustainable products that appeal to a broader audience. By prioritising economic sustainability and social responsibility, we create a viable ecosystem for sustainable fashion to thrive.

Raffia Doll Jean Dress from the Memory Jean Collection

Which creatives do you follow and admire?

I commend Lagos Fashion Week’s Green Access programme for fostering sustainable fashion among young designers. This initiative shines a spotlight on eco-conscious designers. I admire designers like Nkwo Onwuka of NKWO and Adeju Thompson of Lagos Space Programme.

A lot of Nigerian designers are on the path of sustainability, and this is something I really admire.

Additionally, organisations like the Ellen McArthur Foundation are doing outstanding work in promoting sustainability in the fashion industry.

Can you recommend three books that inspire you?

  • Quiet Leadership by David Rock
  • The Spanx Story by Charlie Wetzel
  • How to Win Friends and Influence People by Dale Carnegie

 

  • To learn more about Eki Kéré, check out their website and follow them on Instagram at @eki_kere
  • Images supplied and sourced from Eki Kéré
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