As consumers, it’s become increasingly important to consider a garment’s end-of-life when shopping. It is now widely known that synthetic fibres will not only take hundreds of years to biodegrade, but also contribute to environmental pollution by leaking chemicals into soils, contaminating rivers and more. What is perhaps less well known to consumers is how ‘natural’ materials can be and commonly are rendered non-biodegradable. A garment made from pure linen becomes toxic to the Earth once dyed with toxic dyes or blended with synthetic materials like elastic, for example.

An increasing number of brands are putting nature at the forefront of their design process, creating garments using natural fibres and some that are naturally dyed. Here are a few:

Mother of Gao

Katlego Mokwana of Mother of Gao uses natural elements such as botanicals and tea to add colour and detail to her 100% cotton pieces. Her brand aims to embody the tranquillity of an untouched Earth, highlighting the natural tones and textures of cotton or playing with organically occurring colours. The yellow hues of Mother of Gao’s latest collection are achieved with marigolds and onion skins, intended to emulate light and glory. Her floral-print dress achieved by artfully hammering marigold flowers into bull denim. Katlego’s unique and exciting pieces prove that sustainable clothing can be fun and fashion-forward.

Find out more about Mother of Gao here.

SELFI

SELFI’s Celeste Lee Arendse takes conscientious fabric selection seriously, centring the brand’s fabric list on its website. She limits herself to using a select few materials, chosen for their environmental impact, taking into consideration factors such as water usage, greenhouse gases, and the end-of-life of each garment. These include linen, prized for its low water usage, ramie, which flourishes without pesticides, and fast-growing bamboo. SELFI’s minimalist designs, natural colour palette and distinctly African stylings make these trans-seasonal pieces to be cherished and kept for a lifetime.

Find out more about SELFI here.

Beagle + Basset

Beagle + Basset’s range of clothing is small and simple, featuring impeccably and thoughtfully made pieces. Their boxy shirts and effortless kimonos are made from 100% linen, each dyed in a hue borrowed from nature. They use botanical dyes both for their positive environmental impact and for the unique charm they bring to pieces. Dedicated to extending the life cycle of their products, Beagle + Basset also produces a plant-based biodegradable laundry detergent to use with their garments. For those wanting to experience the allure of botanical dyeing firsthand, the brand offers kits that guide you through the process of bundle-dyeing a silk scarf or locally spun Merino wool.

Find out more about Beagle + Basset here.

Haus of Stone

Zimbabwean label Haus of Stone creates couture pieces out of a biodegradable household material: mutton cloth. This 100% cotton fabric is commonly used as rags for cleaning, reimagined by the label’s head Danayi Madondo into glamorous high-fashion silhouettes, subverting and redirecting what was once considered disposable. Danayi is known to take long breaks in between collections, refusing to adhere to the fast-paced cyclical nature of the fashion industry. Haus of Stone recently launched its showroom, where a combination of staples and one-off pieces in variegated tones of ivory, cream and white can be shopped.

Find out more about Haus of Stone here.

Ilse Menck

Ilse Menck produces hemp, linen and cotton pieces that are an investment to both the wearer and the planet. In 2020, Ilse began experimenting with chemical-free dyeing techniques, creating the brand’s EcoPrint range. In bold and durable blue hues, their indigo pieces are created using dye derived from indigo-bearing plants, one of the oldest methods of fabric dyeing. Iron and vinegar are also used to bundle dye over an open fire, resulting in botanical silhouettes of sustainably harvested plants. Ilse’s philosophy is that if what we wear—the clothing against our skin—is produced in an Earth-conscious way then we will feel more connected to and responsible for the planet.

Find out more about Ilse Menck here.

Sage and Sunday

Sage and Sunday carries beautiful basics, with shades of rooibos, sage and turmeric all achieved with Global Organic Textile Standard-certified dyes. To reduce waste, garments are made to order by the small local in-house team. Pieces are made using hemp linen in classic yet contemporary cuts intended to serve as wardrobe staples for years to come. While the team prides itself on producing biodegradable pieces, Sage and Sunday also offers a free lifetime mending service to extend each item’s life until then. The brand recognises the knock-on effect of making sustainable fashion choices, and aims to reshape the concept that style must be compromised for sustainability.

Find out more about Sage and Sunday here.

• Feature image: Sage and Sunday