Thando Ntuli, creative director and owner of MUNKUS, grew up stealing clothing from her grandmother’s closet. Now, ‘stealing’ ideas from familial generations before her is central to her design practice.
“I like to create clothing that transcends time and think of it as closing a generational gap,” says Thando who also teaches fashion part-time and is completing her Master of Business Administration. Born in Soweto, and affectionately called ‘Munkus’ by her family, Thando founded her namesake brand in 2019.
This leap of faith came after stepping away from the stability of her nine-to-five as a buyer, catalysed by the feeling that the corporate world was stifling her creative spirit, and sage advice from her uncle about picturing the life you dream of with every decision you make.
Clothing is meant for whoever feels comfortable in it
In corporate, catalogues were king and single-serving novelty was the priority. “Making clothing for a specific group of people makes no sense to me. Clothing is meant for whoever feels comfortable in it,” says Thando.
Looking through Thando’s designs, there is a definite feeling of a time gone by—as if you’ve stepped into a time capsule of DRUM magazine or sewing patterns from the 50s, albeit with a contemporary flair.
MUNKUS SS23. Creative production: Dicker&Dane
Elegant layering is a key identifier of the brand, as can be seen in MUNKUS’ most recent SS23 ISIKHATHI collection. This allows customers to have multiple pieces that can stand the test of time, be assembled in different ways, as well as create a more inclusive size curve. Thando prioritises locally sourced fabrics and works primarily with cotton, linen, and denim. The designs are a nod to the past without holding onto the outdated fashion practices of the old guard.
Reimagining the old extends into MUNKUS’ nuanced and intentional approach to sustainability, tailored to African realities—an approach still sorely missing from the way sustainable fashion is understood in the public consciousness. These sustainability efforts were celebrated when the brand was announced as the winner of the Trans-seasonal Design Award and the overall Changemaker Award, presented by Foschini, at the 2023 Twyg Sustainable Fashion Awards.
The praxis of sustainability lies in the brand’s generational foundations that remind us that sustainability can be found in the simplest concept. In this case, inheritance.
Traditions are passed down through family stories and you learn to cherish these traditions
“Being South African, heirlooms have always been a part of my culture. Traditions are passed down through family stories and you learn to cherish these traditions. This goes for clothing too,” says Thando. Adding that “Sustainability has always been rooted in our culture without us knowing it.” Emphasising the value and joy of passing down clothing is Thando’s way of creating an image of sustainability that is for everyone.
To further illustrate the point, Thando describes a picture of her great-grandmother, grandmother, mother, and her — four generations of women. “I’ve always dreamed of a brand that translated the stories of strong women and clothing shared across generations,” she adds.
Creative director of MUNKUS, Thando Ntuli, received the SA Fashion Week New Talent Search competition in 2022. Photo: Eunice Driver
Her main goal with MUNKUS is to build a brand that is firmly rooted in South African soil. But this doesn’t come easy. “If you want to use local CMTS, you have to have a large minimum order quantity. If you want to make garments one by one, then it becomes hugely costly to buy fabrics, so your prices go up. Now your prices don’t match your corporate competitors and people choose the cheaper garment,” shares Thando on the trials and tribulations of running a local slow fashion business.
Thando has chosen to turn these bumps in the road into new paths. She’s in the process of developing a subsidiary of MUNKUS, called The Fashion Hub, to address the resource gap. This brick-and-mortar concept space will house everything a designer needs to create a collection in one place—from a photography studio and sewing machines to showrooms.
“What stood out to me is that MUNKUS’ work is providing the world with an African perspective on our contribution to the Sustainable Development Goals agenda. The brand’s work demonstrates the continuation of intergenerational fashion trends with a contemporary appeal that portrays women as bold, confident, and strong members of society,” says Dr Sipho Mbatha, Senior Lecturer of Design Studies at Tshwane University of Technology and one of the 2023 Twyg Awards judges.
It’s time we build each other up
When asked about the legacy she wants to leave behind with MUNKUS, Thando’s answer is simple: collaborating with as many creatives as she can. “You’re always going to create something more innovative if you aren’t working alone. It’s time we build each other up,” she says. MUNKUS is currently collaborating with KFC to redesign their nationwide uniforms.
Speaking of legacy, Thando is redefining the way we engage with and market fashion beyond the runway. “When you create a 10-20 piece look for a runway show, it’s not sustainable because there’s no way you can reproduce and sell all of those garments,” she explains.
MUNKUS SS23. Creative production: Dicker&Dane
Her vision is to focus on small, but innovative campaigns that will drop throughout the year and spotlight one or two garments, at most, that will be reproduced in small batches. At the end of the year, the campaigns will be tied together to form one collection with an overarching story.
Thando shares that the prize money from the Twyg Awards will be used to bring these campaigns to life while allowing her creative freedom. And, it will allow her to amplify the work of fellow creatives too.
“The Foschini Group is committed to a more sustainable future for fashion, and believes that young designers, like Thando, are key to a better fashion industry. By investing in and prioritising local design and production, The Foschini Group aims to strengthen communities, reduce our environmental footprint, and deliver quality products that reflect the beauty and diversity of South African design talent,” says Helen Twemlow, Head of Sustainability at The Foschini Group.
Everything needs to be done with care, collaboration, and consideration
“I’m hoping that these campaigns will shift the way we relate to fashion. No more fast fashion marketing and wasteful collections. Everything needs to be done with care, collaboration, and consideration,” Thando says.
From a budding Fashion Hub, an upcoming collaboration with rental platform Style Rotate, and a series of considered campaigns, MUNKUS is a brand to watch. Much like the heirloom pieces MUNKUS creates, we expect this brand will stand the test of time and grow in reverence with each passing year.
- Feature image: Model Anathi Dalicingo wears a hand-dyed coat by MUNKUS. Styling: Tandekile Mkize. Photo: Andile Phewa
- Other images supplied by Thando Ntuli
- To find out more about MUNKUS, visit their website
