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Q&A: Harmonie Mbunga celebrates African cloth and culture with UDO & HARMONY

by | Jul 19, 2024

Founded by Harmonie Mbunga, luxury fashion brand UDO & HARMONY celebrates African cloth and cultures through refined contemporary design. On her website, Harmonie says, “Our history matters. Our heritage belongs on the world stage, requires a seat at any table it so chooses to be at, and any false narrative of its inferiority must no longer exist.”

We caught up with Harmonie to find out more about her brand story and approach to sustainability.

What is your earliest memory of being interested in fashion?

I’ve always had a natural affinity for creativity, and making things with my hands. From a very young age, I knew how to hand stitch, and would make stuffed dolls and sew little clothes for them. I’d even make them little pieces of furniture. The passion to create has evolved with me.

Why is an African narrative your mission?

There is so much history, so much richness in heritage and craftsmanship on this great continent. Craftsmanship such as that displayed in Kuba cloth and African sculptures—to name but a few—have influenced and inspired renowned artists such as Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse, and inspired whole art movements! My long-term vision with this brand is to offer my contribution to showcase and shift the narrative on African craftsmanship from the biased stereotypes that dilute its richness, influence, and worldwide cultural relevance.

UDO & HARMONY

Tell us about the recent collection.

When I launched the Zuri cardigans last year, I used the term “Afro-bohemian” because the tassels give it this boho, Wild West look while all the patterns are inspired by African cloth and cultures. The tassels themselves are meant to emulate movements seen in the costumes of the Zaouli dance of the Guro people from Côte d’Ivoire. When I was finally able to do a professional shoot for my new designs in December 2023 I knew the theme had to be Afro-cowgirl because we have Basotho cowboys, too.

It has been very interesting to witness the synchronicity my shoot has had with the black country cowboy and cowgirl resurgence happening in the US. An American woman at my Watershed store described a piece as a ‘Beyonce Jacket’! I was in absolute awe of that description. I’m impressed by Beyonce’s undeniable influence and power in pop culture and movements. I hope that Beyonce will one day wear the Zuri cardigan. I’m a fan, obviously!

What does sustainability mean to you?

Traditional craftsmanship has its roots in sustainable development where resources provided by the land are used to create things that last, with little to no harm to the environment, and can be passed down to offspring, for generations.

For me, sustainability in a modern context means taking time to slowly and thoughtfully create using natural materials as far as possible, while utilising technology to make with intentionality, quality, and longevity in mind. All the while having as little to no harm to the environment for our present and future humanity.

Where do you source your natural materials from?

The cotton yarn for our Zuri cardigan and Amari dress comes from one of our best and premium natural fibre mills in the country, Stucken Yarns. The mill sources and supports local farms, as well as neighbouring country’s farmers. Its production process holds the highest standard of quality and safety certification (OEKO-TEX), as well as utilises the latest technology, implementing energy efficiency and management in their dyeing process.

Our garments are then knitted by one of our best knitwear manufacturers in Cape Town. Then, my small team and I finish our Zuris off by French twisting by hand each individual tassel that makes up the fringing.

All of this goes back to what sustainability is to me: we take our time to slowly create classic modern heirlooms with intentionality, quality, and longevity in mind.

Tell us about the names of your garments.

The names celebrate Africa. Every name breathes life into the intentionality of the design.

Amari means ” strength” in Yoruba, as well as “eternal” and “immortal” in Sanskrit, while Zuri means beautiful in Swahili. Our Khaya—“home” in Xhosa—waist bags are named because they’re a little home for all of your most essential daily must-haves. The Asha tote takes its name from the Swahili word for life, named because it’s an everyday tote bag for everyday life.

The Zuri cardigan was also my first garment for the brand. I wanted to create something special, a wearable work of art that carries our African stories with love, heart, and soul. It started by creating a pattern inspired by African symbols with strong meanings in the traditional African cloth and cultures. Meanings such as good fortune, wealth, bravery and cloth like Bogolan from Mali, and Kuba cloth from Congo. I hope for these to be positive affirmations that you carry when wearing our designs.

What message are you sending to consumers through your designs?

The message is to actively and positively celebrate Africa, and support our creatives and builders. My present and long-term mission for this brand is to use it as a vehicle to contribute—in big and small ways—to creating new pathways for passing on our African stories, traditions, skills, and cultures for generations to come. I envision these as new modern heirlooms enjoyed through refined contemporary design.

How often do you create?

Whenever I can. I prefer to allow ideas to flow whenever and wherever. My mind is a busy one: it is constantly going! When I come up with something and I think it’s good I’ll jot it down in my note book or Notes app. Otherwise, I’ll sit in a quiet cosy corner of my home studio.

What do you wish you had known at the start of your
career?

There are so many things, but if I had to choose one, it would be to stay calm through all the turbulence.

How do you measure your success?

I measure the brand’s success by the impact my creations make when the story of their intentional design is shared, and when someone who supports the brand learns something new about traditional African cloth and cultures.

 

  • Find out more about UDO & HARMONY on their website
  • Feature image by Samantha Reinders, others supplied 
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