Having grown up in Nairobi with a conservationist father and a botanist mother, Louise Sommerlatte has always had an appreciation for the beauty of the natural world. She founded her brand Hamaji − named after the Swahili word for ‘nomadic’ − in 2017, which produces free-flowing garments using natural fibres and botanical dyes, made by a network of local artisans. Her designs celebrate handicraft and organic beauty, with pieces handprinted on cotton using woodblocks, woven from botanically dyed Himalayan wool, and crafted from handloomed silks.

What led to the establishment of Hamaji?

From a young age, I have always been interested in design and creativity. I later pursued my fashion career and studied Fashion Design in Cape Town at FEDISA. Hamaji was my graduate collection project, and I decided to continue it in the real world. Coming from a family of entrepreneurs, it felt right to be starting up my own project. Hamaji was founded upon my interest in travelling, exploring global artisans and nurturing artisanal design both in Africa and India, and my deep passion for textiles and handcraft.

Botanically printed handloom silk top worn by Nyabalang Gatwech. Photo by J’Dee Allin

Why is social impact important part to you?

I work with a variety of artisans in rural Kenya and India. Most of them are small independent artisans who bring my designs to life—hand weaving wool in the Himalayas, hand knitting silk on the foothills of Mount Kenya, and weaving handloom silk in West Bengal. I believe it’s important to empower local artisans as it allows people to make a living from their craft. It also empowers them to pass down ancient traditions from generation to generation, keeping their craft alive. Most traditional craft is supported by natural fibres, botanical dyes, local produce and craft techniques, making each step of the process a sustainable one.

What are Hamaji’s commitments to sustainability?

We are committed to sustainability by having a transparent supply chain, highlighting the work we do with local independent artisans, using only natural fibres in our designs and embellishing them with natural dyes which are mostly botanical. Most of our fibres are hand-loomed on a traditional loom, cutting down on manufacturing costs and emissions.

Our garments are made at Wildlife Works, Africa’s first carbon-neutral factory, which protects wildlife, communities and forests in Kenya.

What Hamaji collection resonates most with you and why?

It’s hard to say because at the time each collection is launched it is an extension of my body and mind and encompasses the style and energy of Hamaji for that year. I believe with each new collection the brand grows from strength to strength and it’s beautiful to see a distinct style come out of this over the years. If I had to choose, however, I would say our Kullu collection of wool coats resonates with me most. The whole trip was such an epic adventure, travelling high up into the Himalayas to meet the women artisans who would be weaving these coats for me. I had a vision in my head and spent 10 days with these women in a very remote part of the Himalayas. The design progressed each day and finally we had this magnificent coat to show. Each thread has been woven by hand, hand-spun from indigenous sheep’s wool and botanically dyed with local flora.

Coat crafted from indigenous Himalayan wool, hand spun, woven and botanically dyed with local flora

Tell us why you source of second-hand clothing for raw material.

When I first moved back to Kenya from Cape Town, I really struggled to source fabrics that had a reliable supply chain and that were sustainable, so I went to the second-hand markets called ‘mitumba’ that can be found across Kenyan towns. I would collect old vintage velvet curtains from one of the stalls, and this was the start of our velvet jacket and coat collection, which were all made from second-hand curtains. We send our unwanted scraps to a charity that makes little doll clothes with them. I do believe fashion’s future is second-hand and artisanal.

What has been the most surprising thing you’ve learnt about fashion?

That you don’t need much to start a successful business except a good sense of fashion, perseverance, determination and the ability to stay true to your values.

What is your design style?

I wouldn’t say my cuts are experimental. They tend to be more classic, but I like to experiment with textiles, print and embellishment in all forms. My brand aesthetic is something that has come naturally over the years and is developed through my personal style, however, I do like it when everything matches in a style aesthetic.

Trench coat made from organic twill, printed with wood block and natural dyes, inspired by 19th century French floor tiles. Model: Nyabalang Gatwech. Photo: J’Dee Allin

In a sentence, tell us why you love fashion.

I love fashion because it allows you to express a sense of freedom through your style and an identity that is truly yours and unique.

What is the one item in your wardrobe that defines your style?

This is very hard to say. Ninety-nine percent of the time, I wear Hamaji when I go out, and so I would say Hamaji is what defines my style. A balance of easy elegance and stylish delight.

 

• Discover more about Hamaji on their Instagram
• Images supplied and sourced from Hamaji