Five South African designers showed fashion collections at The Chelsea Factory in New York on 12 September. Manthe Ribane Liebmann, Keneilwe Mothoa, Gugu Peteni, Tsakane Mashaba and Thando Ntuli were selected by the 2024 #GiveHerACrown campaign powered by Jaquar to contribute to the global fashion conversation, and to share their South African stories of resilience, heritage and empowerment. Their collections and stories are now part of the mainstream fashion narrative which has long been dominated by Global North stories and brands.

“The New York Fashion Week has been an unbelievable opportunity for the world to see what South African creativity has to offer,” says Lorin Edgar, project lead from The Change Collective Africa.

Fashion plays a significant role in telling the stories of women, acting as a form of self-expression, cultural identity, and social commentary

Since its launch in 2020, #GiveHerACrown has used the transformative power of art and storytelling to challenge societal norms, celebrate women’s empowerment, and create lasting impact. In 2024, the #ShiftingPerspectives theme is focussed on how women are perceived in society. “We empower the selected artists and commission them to bring a work to life in line with the campaign theme, allowing them to tell their stories through their art,” says Lorin.

“We shortlisted artists who exemplify creativity and have the capability to bring the theme to life,” Lorin says. “Fashion plays a significant role in telling the stories of women, acting as a form of self-expression, cultural identity, and social commentary. In essence fashion is not just about aesthetics; it’s a tool that conveys the stories of women’s struggles, triumphs and evolutions in society.”

The year’s #GiverHerACrown designers:

Manthe Ribane Liebmann

Manthe Ribane shows her M. Aura collection 

Manthe Ribane Liebmann’s work transcends traditional fashion boundaries. For her M. Aura collection, she draws inspiration from avant-garde Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo, blending fashion, technology and movement to create wearable art.

“M. Aura represents a woman who retains an aura of mystery, power, and flow,” Manthe says. “It questions the very essence of fashion and beauty, and what it means to dress with dignity today.” The collection features oversized silhouettes and deconstructed forms, inviting the wearer to step into a world where clothing becomes a form of technology, innovation and self-respect.

Ribane’s designs challenge societal norms, making a bold statement about how women can express their individuality and strength through fashion.

Thando Ntuli for MUNKUS

MUNKUS presents a collection titled Iphupho

Thando Ntuli creative director of MUNKUS presented a collection titled Iphupho, drawing on the nostalgic memories of her childhood in Soweto, where she was inspired by the 1970s and 80s fashion she found in her mother and grandmother’s wardrobes. This vibrant collection is a celebration of the imagination and playfulness of youth, blending retro influences with Ntuli’s distinctive creative vision.

“Iphupho captures the wonder of a child’s perspective,” Thando shares. “It’s a nostalgic tribute to the joy and limitless potential I felt growing up.”

With bright colours inspired by the beloved buildings and flowers of her childhood, Thando’s designs evoke a sense of nostalgia while challenging societal barriers. Iphupho reflects the endless creativity and optimism of childhood, inspiring women to reconnect with their dreams and ambitions.

Keneilwe Mothoa for Neimil

Neimil’s Leeto La Ka (My Journey) collection for New York Fashion Week

Neimil a fashion label by Keneilwe Mothoa presented Leeto La Ka (My Journey), a deeply personal exploration of cultural heritage and the shifting perspectives that come with self-discovery. Keneilwe draws inspiration from the rich traditions of the Pedi and Ndebele tribes in Mpumalanga, incorporating intricate details, voluminous silhouettes, pleating, and beading into her designs.

“This collection is about a journey of exploration and a shift in how I perceive things,” she shares. “It’s a nod to generations who have passed down their artistry and perspectives, blending the past, present, and future.”

Keneilwe’s work merges traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetics, using bold colours like red—symbolising vitality, strength, and passion—and earthy tones that reflect a connection to her roots. Her designs celebrate heritage while encouraging women to embrace their evolving identities.

Gugu Peteni for GUGU BY GUGU

Gugu Peteni’s collection, Do Not Tumble Dry AW25

Gugu Peteni’s collection, Do Not Tumble Dry AW25, is a genderless exploration of how women reclaim their power and take up space. Inspired by her experiences as a Black woman in the fashion industry, Gugu’s design challenges the ways in which society seeks to diminish women’s value.

“I often refrained from asserting myself because I didn’t want to be perceived as difficult, angry, or loud,” she says. “My collection aims to inspire women to reclaim their voice, to unshrink themselves, and to stand tall and powerful.”

Using the concepts of shrinking and oversizing, Gugu’s collection visually represents the struggle women face in being forced to fit societal expectations. Her work encourages women to assert their power and unapologetically take up space.

Tsakane Mashaba for HAMETHOP

Tsakane Mashaba of HAMETHOP presents Resonance

In her collection, Resonance, Tsakane Mashaba of HAMETHOP explores the strength and resilience of women, drawing inspiration from her grandmother and the deep connection between women, the land, and dreams. “This collection is about building a foundation for future generations,” Tsakane says. “It celebrates the strength of women who nurture both land and dreams.”

Resonance blends traditional elements with contemporary design, reflecting the harmony between heritage and modernity. Each piece in the collection is a tribute to the timeless strength of women, offering a glimpse into how they continue to shape the future while remaining connected to their roots.

Manthe Ribane Liebmann, Keneilwe Mothoa, Gugu Peteni, Tsakane Mashaba and Thando Ntuli 

The designers will showcase their collections in Johannesburg on 10 October, allowing local audiences to connect with their stories and the broader message of #ShiftingPerspectives.

In collaboration with The Change Collective Africa and powered by Jaguar, #GiveHerACrown connects artists with opportunities for growth, offering them a platform to express their creativity while championing female empowerment. With the Crown Educational Fund and Crown Bursary Fund, the initiative also provides educational tools and scholarships to help young women reach their full potential.

As #GiveHerACrown continues to expand, its vision remains clear: to empower women through storytelling, art, and fashion. The platform’s reach is growing, and with it, the opportunity to make a real impact in the lives of female creatives and young women across South Africa and beyond.

“Fashion and art have the power to inspire change, challenge perspectives, and redefine how we see the world,” says Lorin Edgar. With the continued support of global partners like Jaguar, #GiveHerACrown is poised to create even more opportunities for women to reclaim their narratives and thrive on both local and international stages.

 

• Images: Lam Lai