For inspiration when he designs, Thato Mengwai looks to the many subcultures – like Isikhothane and Isipantsula – he was exposed to as a youth. Thato was born and raised in townships on the outskirts of Johannesburg. “I try to find an element from these subcultures and re-imagine it.” He is also inspired by the anti-Apartheid movement. “I was not born during that era but hearing stories about it really gives me hope that I can make anything and evoke whatever I want through design,” he says.
While he was growing up, Thato loved to draw. In his teens he painted on clothes and sneakers, and helped his mother make traditional beads and crochet hats. “It didn’t occur to me that I loved fashion.” It was only when he was in grade 12 and watched an Instagram video of someone sewing a garment from scratch that he decided to study fashion design at the University of Johannesburg.
Thato was one of four young fashion design residents at the recent Nike Airmax Residency in March 2026. He was mentored by acclaimed South African fashion designer Thebe Magugu at Magugu House in Johannesburg for two weeks. At the end of the residency, the designers exhibited their final garments at Keyes Avenue in Rosebank, Johannesburg, on 28 March.
Thabo says, he feels confident now that he can be successful as a fashion designer. “The Nike Air Max Residency opened a door for me for which I am grateful for.”
Describe the garment you made during the residency.
Image: Courtesy Nike South Africa
I made a puffer jacket. The concept is hope. I referenced the Apartheid era: a very dark time for Black people. But in the darkness there was always hope, which you would see when people were singing and chanting. I depicted the contradictory states by using colour, construction methods and printing. I used green which symbolises hope but it’s mostly black. There is only a bit of green because there was only just a little bit of hope during Apartheid. I named my garment Beauty in Chaos since Apartheid was chaotic. I used a construction method in the sleeves that mimics distortion and chaos. I generated an image that shows people during Apartheid and edited it so it looks distorted: it speaks to chaos. I used duchess satin fabric for the garment.
How did Thebe Magugu’s mentorship influence your design?
Image: Courtesy Nike South Africa
Image: Courtesy Nike South Africa
Thebe challenged my thinking. After he gave me advice, I decided to change some aspects of my design. He encouraged me to be true to myself throughout the process and by guiding me, he made the process enjoyable.
Was there a specific moment during the residency that stood out for you?
When the Nike team came to see our progress at Magugu House, we explained our concepts to them. I liked how they understood what I was evoking with my garment. The residency challenged me by taking me outside of my comfort zone and making me work harder because I was engaging with a huge brand.
- Thato was one of four young fashion designers selected to participate in the Nike Air Max Residency in March. Over two weeks in Johannesburg, the emerging designers worked closely with Thebe Magugu at Magugu House. At the end of the residency, they showcased their final designs. The other designers are Lindokuhle Mdluli, Siphesihle Mkhabela and Khanyisile Masina
- You can follow Thato on Instagram here
- Images supplied by Nike South Africa
- This is a sponsored post
