Old is in — and the resale market is booming. Luxury bags are flying off virtual shelves in seconds, and Gen Z are factoring resale value into every purchase. But is resale really slow fashion, or just a guilt-free way of buying more?

This week’s explainer breaks down what’s driving resale, and what it means for the future of fashion. While second-hand refers to all used apparel, resale is generally a higher value curation of preloved clothes.

Rise of resale

Globally, second-hand fashion grew 15% in 2024, with 9% of clothing spend now being on second-hand. Vestiaire Collective, a preloved marketplace, is seeing this growth in speedy sales – like a Dior Saddle bag that sold in 1 minute 37 seconds.

It’s clear there’s demand for second-hand clothing – and online marketplaces have made it easier to find what you’re looking for.

Vintage vs resale vs second-hand

Before we start, let’s explain the terms we’ll be using:

Resale = Curated, higher value second-hand apparel
Second-hand = Resale + donations/thrift (all used apparel)
Vintage = Clothing that is at least 20 years old

Resale is just one piece of the second-hand puzzle. This explainer is focused on resale, but doesn’t speak on broader issues – like textile waste dumping in the Global South.

Vestiaire’s Resale Buying Guide

Vestiaire Collective has released a data-driven guide to show buyers and brands what keeps its value in the clothing resale market.

It includes their Vestiaire Value Ranking, which scores brands based on 5-year resale value, customer preferences, sales, and more

Change buying habits

The rise of resale is changing the fashion landscape and how we buy clothes. This guide cements resale as an expected point in the lifespan of clothing.

Buyers are increasingly choosing brands with strong resale value, knowing they might resell an item later on (much like the art world’s secondary market).

Resale crib notes

Key insights from the resale guide:

• More people are negotiating: Buyers are looking to stretch their budget by offering less than asking price
• More vintage: Searches for vintage clothes are increasing
• More trends: Trends still drive sales – top performers include kitten heels, animal print, oversized bags, and keyring charms

They don’t make ‘em like they used to

There’s a growing understanding that the quality of vintage clothing is unmatched in today’s market.

Why? Fast fashion prioritises quantity and speed over quality materials and manufacturing.

Design for the resale era

If consumers are considering resale when buying clothes, then brands must consider resale when designing clothes.

This would mean better quality clothes that last longer, and hence hold their value in the resale market. The resale market is being driven by Gen Z and millennials – and brands will need to keep up.

Silver linings

Resale isn’t just sustainable, it’s strategic. Some positives from a resale culture:

• Designers are pressured to design for longevity
• Buyers are incentivised to care for their clothes
• Fashion’s cyclical nature makes resale a great fit for industry waste reduction

Shop preloved

There are many online marketplaces for preloved clothing:
South Africa → Yaga, Vintage with Love
Europe → Vestiaire Collective, Vinted
North America → Vestiaire Collective, Vinted

 

Sources

• The Ethos
• Fashion Network
• ThredUp Resale Report 2025
• Vestiaire Collective Resale Buying Guide SS25
• Vogue

Credit

• Feature image by Samuel Yongbokwan on Unsplash
• Read more of our Explainers here